2014 Chianti Classico Rubiolo

Gagliole continues to make serious strides in quality under the leadership of proprietor Thomas Bär and longtime winemaker Stefano Chioccioli. The range is now quite different than it was when this estate first gained notoriety for its racy, voluptuous wines. Although Gagliole is located in Castellina, since 2013 the top wines, including the namesake Gagliole are all made predominantly or exclusively from the estate's Valletta property in Panzano's Conca d'Oro. This means that 1) most of the Castellina fruit now goes into the entry-level Chianti Classico Rubiolo, 2) the Gagliole Rosso is made from fruit from Valletta in Panzano, 3) the Valletta is made from fruit from both the Valletta and Gagliole properties and 4) the Pecchia is made exclusively from Valletta. Confused? Me, too. Gagliole's most recent purchase is a piece of land that formerly belonged to Le Cinciole, also in Panzano. So, these wines are more brand than strictly wines of place. As for the wines themselves, they are terrific. Along the way Chioccioli has refined his approach while not straying from rich style of wines he favors. It's not an exaggeration to state that today Gagliole makes some of the very best wines readers will find in this style.