2004 Castello di Pomino Rosso
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Credit must be given to the Frescobaldi family for having kept on making their top Montesodi wine as a Chianti Rufina rather than adding cabernet and joining the Super-Tuscan ranks. "It was a decision that cost us immensely," owner Lamberto Frescobaldi told me. "You need to remember that there was a time 15 or 20 years ago when you couldn't give Chianti away, and this wasn't even a Classico! But we felt we needed to keep up the name of Rufina and have people become more and more aware of the great potential of this sub-area." Frescobaldi's wines are some of the darker and more modern wines made in Chianti-something true of their Brunello as well. Also recommended: 2005 Castiglioni Chianti (85).