2014 Rosso del Contadino

The wines of this idiosyncratic Etna producer have a strong cult following. Cornelissen farms roughly 15 hectares, of which 12 are vines trained in the alberello, or bush-vine, system typical of the area. New vineyards are planted without grafts, buckwheat is used to help soils low on organic material, yields are low, and the grapes are harvested late, from mid-October to mid-November. Cornelissen generally avoids all treatments, and only in exceptionally difficult vintages does he use copper sulphate and sulfur treatments. I have never been a huge fan of these wines, which to my taste are often marred by oxidized aromas and flavors. That said, I always find a few wines to like every year.