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Ric Forman was racking his 2002 cabernet on the day of my visit, for only the second time. He noted that he stirred the lees for the first five months, racked the wine for the first time, then left it alone for another 11 months.(Forman claimed, by the way, that he is among the few California cabernet producers who routinely stir their lees.) Forman continues to be dubious about the ageworthiness of many of today's increasingly extreme red wines from Napa Valley: Will today's high-alcohol cabs get those ineffable underbrush and spice notes with age, or will they simply dry out?" he wondered.
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