2004 Chianti Classico Fontodi

Though Fontodi is located in the heart of Panzano, a spectacular site for sangiovese, owner Giovanni Manetti feels that 2005 was a generally difficult year in which the rains harmed the grapes more than other producers are willing to let on. Proof of this is that he will not be making any of his Chianti Riserva Il Sorbo or his Case Via Syrah in this vintage and only a very small quantity of his famous Flaccianello Super-Tuscan. "The weather was such that I reduced production by more than 20% overall," he reported. This estate is another that produces an extremely high quality extra virgin olive oil, vastly superior to the ones made at other wine estates that view olive oil only as a cutesy complement to the wine portfolio.

Giovanni Manetti continues to turn out some of Italy's most compelling wines at Fontodi. Located in Panzano, the estate's 70 hectares of organically farmed vineyards are all in the famous Conca d'Oro subzone. The estate's top wine, the 100% Sangiovese Flaccianello della Pieve, was first produced in 1981. Flaccianello began its history as a single-vineyard wine. Over the last few years Manetti has begun to gradually re-plant portions of the vineyard. With the 2001 vintage Flaccianello is most accurately described as a selection of the estate's best fruit rather than a single-vineyard Sangiovese. As good as Flaccianello can be, readers should not ignore the estate's other wines, which are equally outstanding. Fontodi's Chianti Classico (100% Sangiovese aged in used barrique) is typically on of the region's best and the Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is one of the top Chiantis that employ international varietals. My recent visit at Fontodi ended with a tasting of several older vintages of Flaccianello, including the 1982, which was breathtaking for its poise and sheer beauty of expression. Simply put, I can't say enough good things about Giovanni Manetti and the wines of Fontodi.