2016 Rosso Merlot Patrimo
$175 (2018)
Italy
Irpinia
Campania
Red
Merlot (2018 vintage)
00
2016
2022 - 2026
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2018
2026 - 2034
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2017
2022 - 2032
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I must admit that I’m pretty impressed in coming back to Feudi di San Gregorio after many years that previously formed my opinions of the wines. There was a time when the only value I found was in the lower end of the portfolio for serviceable Campanian whites and fresh Aglianico. Unfortunately, at the higher end, the wines were heavily influenced by oak, and as I watched them mature, they simply came across as out of balance. However, the good news is that I found a lot to like from the small selection of “prestige” I tasted, including two vintages of the Taurasi Piano di Monte Vergine Riserva and the Merlot Patrimo.
00
2015
2018 - 2023
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2014
2018 - 2018
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2013
2016 - 2020
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Feudi di San Gregorio is an important wine producer in this neck of the Italian woods, offering employment to a large number of locals. To the estate’s credit, it also helped popularize Campanian wines (especially the whites) in the 80s and 90s in Italy and abroad and has invested heavily in wine grape and winemaking research (including, for example, creating a bubbly Falanghina wine with the consulting help of Anselme Selosse, no less). The very large portfolio of wines run the gamut from well-made but insipid to rich, ageworthy and large-scale.
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2012
2016 - 2020
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One of Italy’s most renowned wine estates, Feudi di San Gregorio has the immense merit of having produced, for the last two decades, very fine, reasonably priced entry- level wines. Many newcomers to wine in Italy and abroad first started drinking Falanghina, Fiano and Greco wines thanks to Feudi, as the estate is commonly referred to in Italy. And the winery’s crus, the Fiano di Avellino Pietracalda and the Greco di Tufo Cutizzi, are much better than they are usually given credit for. Feudi hit a rough patch over the last six or seven years, and only in the last two years have the wines been back to their former level of quality. I remain convinced that the estate does white wines best. Their entry-level reds are decent but not special and their top-level reds are strongly marked by sweet toasty oak.
00
2009
2013 - 2023
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Once again, Feudi impresses for the sheer breadth of their range. From top to bottom, this is a terrific set of wines from one of the benchmark wineries in Campania, and all of Italy, for that matter.
00
2007
2017 - 2027
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Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is of course from Basilicata.
00
2006
2014 - 2026
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Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery's early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery's missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings.
00
2005
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2005
2013 - 2020
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Feudi di San Gregorio continues to expand its offerings, and at some point it is only natural to wonder if there isn't some degree of diminishing returns here, particularly after the undistinguished showing of some of the wines in the line-up. In addition these wines, I also tasted the new range of méthode champenoise wines Feudi is making in association with Anselme Selosse. Feudi has created a lot of buzz about these wines but for now they remain very much a work in progress and have a long way to go before they can compete with Italy's finest sparkling wines, not to mention those of one of Champagne's most iconic producers.
00
2005
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Also recommended: 2007 Falanghina Sannio (86), 2006 Rubrato Aglianico Campania (85).
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2004
2013 - 2026
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This relatively young estate in Campania has come along in recent years with a very consistent range of wines mostly focused on indigenous varieties. Quality is especially remarkable considering the large number of bottles produced. Oenologist Riccardo Cotarella oversees winemaking. The reds are made in a full-bodied, concentrated style and are aged in small French oak barrels. The important reds should be tasted immediately upon release or after a few years, as they tend to shut down considerably in bottle. Serpico is the top Aglianico bottling while Pàtrimo is 100% Merlot. While these two wines have garnered a lot of attention recently, the 2001 Taurasi Riserva Piano di Monte Vergine is the hidden gem in this lineup. Among the whites, the Campanaro (Fiano and Greco) and the selections of Fiano and Greco are notable, while the regular bottlings of those wines offer superb value. As is often the case with reds from Southern Italy, I wonder if a more enlightened, refined approach in the cellar might not take these wines to another level. Readers may also want to check out my article on Best Buys from Italy available on this site for more top values from Feudi di San Gregorio.
00
2002
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There have been few bigger success stories in the world of Italian wine than this one. This estate, owned by the Ercolino brothers and relying on the golden touch of winemaker Riccardo Cotarella, turns out an almost endless series of wines that garner praise and enthusiastic followers wherever they are served. The estate originally owned 30 hectares back in 1986 but is now at 250 and counting, including vineyards owned and wines made in other regions such as Basilicata and Puglia. Feudi di San Gregorio is well worth a visit. And don't forget to try the restaurant, a welcome stop after a hard day of visiting estates and walking through vineyards. Also tasted: 2003 Falanghina Sannio, 2003 Serrocielo Falanghina Sannio, 2002 Rubrato Aglianico Irpinia, 2001 Ognissole Chardonnay Puglia.
00
1999
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This house is a rising power in the region, with annual production of over 150,000 cases from owned and purchased grapes. The style of the wines has changed considerably since Riccardo Cotarella took over the winemaking from Luigi Mojo in 1999, though the 1997 red wines obviously reflect the approach of the latter.
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