2015 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia

This is an uneven set of wines from Fèlsina. The young 2021s will give readers a very good idea of what makes this vintage so compelling. The Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi both possess a level of fruit purity and overall harmony that is compelling. But not all the wines are equally impressive. For the second year, the flagship Rancia is marked by unusually severe tannins and vegetal notes that are not typical. Fèlsina remains a reference point, but there has been some variability over the last two sets of releases.

This is an interesting set of wines from Fèlsina. The two 2020s make me really excited to taste the rest of the range. "Most of the year was marked by consistently warm weather, but with no shock events," Giuseppe Mazzocolin explained. "We were fortunate to have good ventilation throughout the most critical periods."

The 2019s are more mixed. Less even ripening and higher yields are evident in wines that are lighter than usual and also at times a bit rustic. That is most evident in Rancia. I can't remember a young Rancia that was underwhelming, and I have tasted them all. The 2019 is certainly a mystery at this stage.

These new releases from Fèlsina will give readers a very good idea of the style of current vintages. The Fèlsina Chianti Classicos have generally been wines of power. What impresses me most about the flagship Rancia and Colonia in 2018 is their finesse. Readers on a budget will want to check out the straight Chianti Classico, a wine that offers superb quality and value, yet also has the potential to age. In short, this is another stellar set of wines from the team led by Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Giovanni Poggiali. Fèlsina fans will also want to check out the wines of sister estates Castello di Farnetella and Pagliarese.

This is a gorgeous set of wines from Fèlsina. The range is full of highlights, starting with the 2018 Chianti Colli Senesi, which is especially refined and a fabulous value. Fèlsina fans will find much to like in the 2017s as well. As always, the wines are deep and rich, with that distinct element of wildness that is so characteristic of the Sangioveses of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Even after all these years, Giovanni Poggiali and Giuseppe Mazzocolin, with their team, craft wines of distinction and elegance. Lastly, readers should also check out the wines of sister estate Pagliarese, which are made in a slightly more classic style.

I have had many memorable tastings at Fèlsina over the years, but my most recent visit was especially of note, as I tasted an extensive vertical of Fontalloro for an upcoming article. As for the current releases, they are terrific. Fèlsina excels with bold Sangioveses that show the wilder side of the variety typical of Castelnuovo Berardenga, which lies at the southern end of the Chianti Classico apellation, just a few kilometers from Siena, which can be seen from the vineyards on a clear day. Fèlsina is of course best know for their flagship Chianti Classico Rancia, which is one of the world's most distinctive wines. For my money, though, the real standout in this range when it comes to quality and for the price is the Chianti Classico Riserva, which is a mini-Rancia of sorts that opens a bit earlier in bottle but that can also age. Readers should also take a look at the wines of Fèlsina's sister properties, Castello di Farnetella and Pagliarese, which are reviewed here separately.

My visit to Fèlsina was one of the many highlights of my most recent trip to Chianti Classico. I tasted a wide range of wines with Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Giovanni Poggiali. Even after a long day, it was frankly hard to leave the tasting room. The wines were every bit that compelling. The estate's 2016s and 2015s are simply magnificent. Readers will get a very good sense of the elegance of 2016 and the power of the 2015s with this range. While it is certainly tempting to focus on the flagships, both the Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva are fabulous choices for readers looking for ageworthy wines that are affordable, something that has always been a strong suit at Fèlsina, where prices remain exceedingly fair. More than anything else, though, Fèlsina represents all the best values of Chianti Classico and its wines.

The biggest news at Fèlsina is that the estate did not bottle their top wines in 2014, instead all of that fruit was used to bolster the quality of the straight Chianti Classico. Readers on a budget will want to seek out the 2015 Chianti Classico Berardenga, a wine that captures all the best qualities of that vintage. Lastly, readers should be on the lookout for the new wine from Fèlsina’s Pagliarese property (reviewed here separately). Fèlsina has long been a reference-point for pure Sangiovese wines in Chianti Classico. The Pagliarese is a throwback Chianti Classico made in a super-traditional style that incorporates Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino in the blend.

The biggest news at Fèlsina is that the estate did not bottle their top wines in 2014, instead all of that fruit was used to bolster the quality of the straight Chianti Classico. Readers on a budget will want to seek out the 2015 Chianti Classico Berardenga, a wine that captures all the best qualities of that vintage. Lastly, readers should be on the lookout for the new wine from Fèlsina’s Pagliarese property (reviewed here separately). Fèlsina has long been a reference-point for pure Sangiovese wines in Chianti Classico. The Pagliarese is a throwback Chianti Classico made in a super-traditional style that incorporates Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino in the blend.

This is a phenomenal set of wines that confirms Fèlsina's standing as one of the great estates in the world. It's as simple as that. The 2014 Chianti Classico is a huge overachiever as it has quite a bit of fruit that normally goes into the top selections - Fontalloro, Rancia and Colonia. Now in bottle, the 2013s capture all the potential I sensed when I tasted the wines last year.

This is a superb set of wines from Fèlsina. What else is new? The move towards the new generation continues as Giovanni Poggiali takes on a greater role at the estate, while Giuseppe Mazzocolin enjoys the fruits of his labor in a gradual transition into retirement. Fèlsina fans will note an addition to the range, a Chianti Colli Senesi from estate vineyards. Mazzocolin and long-time winemaker Franco Bernabei describe 2012 as a year with a warm winter and very little rain all the way through to August, when some precipitation arrived. September was hot but with good temperature shifts between day and night. Of course, Fèlsina is in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation, where weather tends to be warm and dry in most vintages. Harvest started on September 14 and wrapped up on October 5. The 2012s present a combination of radiant fruit from the warm vintage, but with medium-bodied frames that are also typical of the year. The 2013s, from a cooler year, are shaping to be truly epic. Fèlsina was less fortunate in 2014, a year in which none of the top wines are likely to be bottled. Instead, it is looking like Fèlsina will release a single Chianti Classico. Tasted from barrel, that wine is exquisite today. It will be interesting to see what time brings. Lastly, readers might also enjoy this short video with Giuseppe Mazzocolin. I am down to my last bottles of the 1994 and 1995 Rancias, but both were magnificent when I last had them a few months ago and I was compelled to pry Mazzocolin for a little more background on those wines. May I make a suggestion? Readers would do well to buy a case of Rancia upon release every year and put it away. Few wines deliver so much pleasure and pedigree at maturity for what remains a very fair price.

This is a superb set of wines from Fèlsina. What else is new? The move towards the new generation continues as Giovanni Poggiali takes on a greater role at the estate, while Giuseppe Mazzocolin enjoys the fruits of his labor in a gradual transition into retirement. Fèlsina fans will note an addition to the range, a Chianti Colli Senesi from estate vineyards. Mazzocolin and long-time winemaker Franco Bernabei describe 2012 as a year with a warm winter and very little rain all the way through to August, when some precipitation arrived. September was hot but with good temperature shifts between day and night. Of course, Fèlsina is in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation, where weather tends to be warm and dry in most vintages. Harvest started on September 14 and wrapped up on October 5. The 2012s present a combination of radiant fruit from the warm vintage, but with medium-bodied frames that are also typical of the year. The 2013s, from a cooler year, are shaping to be truly epic. Fèlsina was less fortunate in 2014, a year in which none of the top wines are likely to be bottled. Instead, it is looking like Fèlsina will release a single Chianti Classico. Tasted from barrel, that wine is exquisite today. It will be interesting to see what time brings. Lastly, readers might also enjoy this short video with Giuseppe Mazzocolin. I am down to my last bottles of the 1994 and 1995 Rancias, but both were magnificent when I last had them a few months ago and I was compelled to pry Mazzocolin for a little more background on those wines. May I make a suggestion? Readers would do well to buy a case of Rancia upon release every year and put it away. Few wines deliver so much pleasure and pedigree at maturity for what remains a very fair price.

What a pleasure it is to taste this set of new releases from Felsina. The team led by Giuseppe Mazzocolin, Giovanni Poggiali and long-time winemaker Franco Bernabei doesn't miss a beat. The straight Chianti Classico is one of the best wines in the world for the money, while Rancia continues to be a reference point. This year, I was especially impressed with the Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro and the Fontalloro. In particular, over the last two vintages, Fontalloro seems to have reached a new level of quality, and that is great news for Felsina fans.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Felsina fans are going to have a field day with these new releases. The 2011 Chianti Classico is a great choice for near-term drinking and by the glass pours, while the 2010 will satisfy the cravings of readers who enjoy sturdier cellar worthy Chiantis. The only wine that remains an enigma is the recently introduced Chianti Classico Riserva Colonia, which appears to still be a work in progress. For more historical perspective, readers may want to take a look at my complete vertical of the flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia in our Archive.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Just when I thought I was familiar with the wines of Fèlsina, the estate comes through with one of the very best sets of new releases I have ever tasted. From top to bottom, these are marvelous wines that deserve serious attention. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin has stepped down from some of his day-to-day duties, but the wines are as good as they have ever been. Fèlsina fans might also enjoy the Rancia vertical published in Issue 201 from the one and only complete Rancia tasting ever staged.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Felsina is the house Giuseppe Mazzocolin built, to borrow a phrase from Babe Ruth and the original Yankee Stadium. Last year Mazzocolin decided to step back from his insane day to day schedule running the winery. While Mazzocolin remains intimately involved in the winery, the future leadership of Felsina is in the hands of Giovanni Poggiali, the oldest son of proprietor Giuseppe Poggiali.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Felsina is a reference-point property for readers who want to discover the best Tuscany has to offer. Prices remain exceedingly fair considering the quality of what is in the bottle.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

If you were to cut proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin's veins the man would bleed Sangiovese, such is his passion for Tuscany's most important native grape. Mazzocolin has a terrific set of new releases on his hands. The 2006s are glorious and benefit from a warm growing season that also saw good alternation of day and evening temperatures before the grapes got a final kick of heat that informs the wines. In 2007, I have only tasted the Chianti Classico so far, but if that wine is indicative, Felsina could have another superb vintage in store for fans of this venerable property. So far 2007 looks to be a vintage of ripe wines made in a more generous, if early maturing style, than the firmer 2006s. Not only are Felsina's wines magnificent, they also remain exceedingly fairly priced in relative terms. Mazzocolin deserves much credit and support from readers for his consumer-friendly approach, especially in these challenging times.

Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes 2005 as a year with a very cold winter and a cool, rainy June. Conditions improved markedly in July before cool weather returned in August. Mazzocolin is among the growers who told me that expectations were for a great vintage moving into the final phase of ripening, but those hopes were dashed by the late season rains.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina's prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina's second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina's prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina's second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.

Ask Giuseppe Mazzocolin, heart and soul of Felsina, how much cabernet or merlot it takes to overwhelm the delicate aromas and flavors of sangiovese in a wine, and the terse reply is "Even one percent." So Mazzocolin's unconditional love and dedication for sangiovese, Tuscany's premier cultivar, is clear. And two of Italy's greatest wines, his Chianti Riserva Rancia and the Fontalloro Super-Tuscan, are proof enough. "I'm not exaggerating," he clarifies. "Sangiovese is overwhelmed by varieties with stronger personalities and I feel that their addition is often just a shortcut for masking poor-quality grapes." Wine lovers and foodies should also know what insiders are well aware of: Mazzocolin is an extra virgin olive oil nut, and Felsina produces one of Italy's very best, of a quality far superior to that offered by most other Tuscan wine estates, with many different bottlings issued from different olive types such as raggiolo and leccino.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Ask Giuseppe Mazzocolin, heart and soul of Felsina, how much cabernet or merlot it takes to overwhelm the delicate aromas and flavors of sangiovese in a wine, and the terse reply is "Even one percent." So Mazzocolin's unconditional love and dedication for sangiovese, Tuscany's premier cultivar, is clear. And two of Italy's greatest wines, his Chianti Riserva Rancia and the Fontalloro Super-Tuscan, are proof enough. "I'm not exaggerating," he clarifies. "Sangiovese is overwhelmed by varieties with stronger personalities and I feel that their addition is often just a shortcut for masking poor-quality grapes." Wine lovers and foodies should also know what insiders are well aware of: Mazzocolin is an extra virgin olive oil nut, and Felsina produces one of Italy's very best, of a quality far superior to that offered by most other Tuscan wine estates, with many different bottlings issued from different olive types such as raggiolo and leccino.

My visit with Giuseppe Mazzocolin at Felsina was another highlight of a recent trip to the region. Felsina is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga, a part of the Chianti Classico zone that straddles the border between the Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi appellations. Even though Castelnuovo is regarded as the warmest of the Chianti Classico microclimates, the Felsina 2003s are among the freshest wines of the vintage. “It's always hot here,” explains Mazzocolin. “The vines are used to the heat, so even though 2003 was very hot, those conditions probably came as less of a shock to our vines than was the case in other sub-zones.” Mazzocolin is passionate about Sangiovese, which he uses exclusively for all of his Chiantis. From top to bottom this is a very high-class set of wines.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

Ask Giuseppe Mazzocolin, heart and soul of Felsina, how much cabernet or merlot it takes to overwhelm the delicate aromas and flavors of sangiovese in a wine, and the terse reply is "Even one percent." So Mazzocolin's unconditional love and dedication for sangiovese, Tuscany's premier cultivar, is clear. And two of Italy's greatest wines, his Chianti Riserva Rancia and the Fontalloro Super-Tuscan, are proof enough. "I'm not exaggerating," he clarifies. "Sangiovese is overwhelmed by varieties with stronger personalities and I feel that their addition is often just a shortcut for masking poor-quality grapes." Wine lovers and foodies should also know what insiders are well aware of: Mazzocolin is an extra virgin olive oil nut, and Felsina produces one of Italy's very best, of a quality far superior to that offered by most other Tuscan wine estates, with many different bottlings issued from different olive types such as raggiolo and leccino.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

This wine was tasted over dinner at Maialino in New York City.

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years

I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina's flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995. I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid 1990s that go straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as the huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1.     100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2.     Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3.     Combines power and elegance 4.     Aging potential: 20-30 years