2004 Rasteau Vieilles Vignes

The set of 2005s I tasted with negociant Michel Tardieu and his enologist, the Zelig-like Philippe Cambie, showed more restraint and elegance than I was expecting. "It was possible to make wines with both finesse and power in 2005, which is why it is such a fantastic vintage in the north as well as the south," Tardieu told me. "In the south, the grenache achieved color like never before; the tannins are abundant and the wines have great concentration. It is essential to cellar them to allow their full potential to be expressed. "Tardieu's fruit sources include many of the top growers and sites throughout the Rhone Valley. (Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; also Chemin des Vins, imported by Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA, Fine Vines, Chicago, IL; William Harrison Imports, Manassas, VA) Also recommended: 2004 Cotes du Rhone Guy Louis (87). Other wines tasted: 2004 Saint-Joseph Vieilles Vignes (?).

I wish that more wine lovers had the opportunity to taste the Tardieu-Laurent collection that I experienced in November.These are concentrated and vinous wines with solid acid spine and structure, all made with fanatical attention to detail by the affable Michel Tardieu.Tardieu's association with Dominique Laurent, of Burgundy fame, has done him no favor with much of the American wine-buying crowd, which believes, usually based on no direct experience or justification, that the Tardieu-Laurent wines are oak bombs.In fact, Tardieu's collection of pure, vibrant and individual wines provides a fascinating tour of the various appellations of the Rhone Valley."The key to great wines is great vineyards worked by dedicated growers," says Tardieu."It's that simple."(Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; also Patrick Lesec Selections, imported by Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA) Also recommended: 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes (86), 2003 Rasteau Vieilles Vignes (86?), 2003 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes (86?), 2003 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes (85?).