2003 Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes

I wish that more wine lovers had the opportunity to taste the Tardieu-Laurent collection that I experienced in November.These are concentrated and vinous wines with solid acid spine and structure, all made with fanatical attention to detail by the affable Michel Tardieu.Tardieu's association with Dominique Laurent, of Burgundy fame, has done him no favor with much of the American wine-buying crowd, which believes, usually based on no direct experience or justification, that the Tardieu-Laurent wines are oak bombs.In fact, Tardieu's collection of pure, vibrant and individual wines provides a fascinating tour of the various appellations of the Rhone Valley."The key to great wines is great vineyards worked by dedicated growers," says Tardieu."It's that simple."(Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; also Patrick Lesec Selections, imported by Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA) Also recommended: 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes (86), 2003 Rasteau Vieilles Vignes (86?), 2003 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes (86?), 2003 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes (85?).