2018 Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Vineyard
$85 (2022)
United States
Sonoma Coast
Sonoma
Red
Pinot Noir (2022 vintage)
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2018
2020 - 2030
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The 2018s at Failla are off the charts. These might very well be the finest wines I have ever tasted from Ehren Jordan and his team. The Sonoma Pinots in particular are just remarkable for their depth and site expression. Readers who want to explore the specific attributes and nuances of the vineyards will flip out over the 2018s. There are plenty of highlights among the 2018 Chardonnays as well, including the Platt and Haynes. I also had a chance to taste the Oregon wines and include notes here. In Oregon, I prefer the Pinots, as my impression is that the Chardonnays are still bit light. Regardless, this collection is a real thrill to taste. I can't recommend these wines highly enough.
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2022
2025 - 2032
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Ehren Jordan turned out a brilliant set of 2022s in what was a very challenging vintage. Even in 2022, the best wines in this range are archetypes, wines that capture the essence of place. The Platt, Estate and Olivet Ranch The Big Egg are all terrific. In the Pinots, I find the Watertrough (from a Martinelli site in the Sebastopol Hills), Mindego Ridge, Estate and Occidental Ridge especially fine. Like all producers, Jordan battled intense late-season heat. As a result, Jordan dropped his usage of stems in warmer, inland sites but used more whole clusters in his coastal vineyards, where heat was less extreme and ripening more even.
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2021
2025 - 2033
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This is a fabulous set of wines from Ehren Jordan and his team at Failla. The 2021s are dark, potent Pinots that capture all the intensity of this drought vintage. Stem inclusion is high, 45-50% on average. Generally, the wines on the coast see even more stem inclusion, in the 40-100% range, while wines from the Russian River and more inland sites see closer to 20-25% stems. The whites are equally impressive. Like so many 2021s, the whites need a good amount of air to show their best.
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2019
2024 - 2034
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Ehren Jordan and his team turned out another set of brilliant wines in 2019 that are more than worthy follow-ups to the sensational 2018s. Jordan describes the year as warmer than 2018, with slightly earlier harvest dates and lower crops. That said, it’s pretty hard to generalize given how many sites Jordan sources from. For example, one of the variables in the 2019s is the use of whole clusters. In general, Jordan used about 15% whole clusters for the California Pinots, lower than the more typical 25% or so because of the warmer weather. A notable exception is the Mindego Ridge Pinot, which saw about 40% stems. In Oregon, a cooler year with some beneficial rain around harvest led to the decision to use about 40% stems across the board. Readers will find many highlights in this range, and not just the usual suspects. The 2019 Chardonnays are especially brilliant. As I have done over the last few years, I also include notes on the Failla wines from Oregon. I imagine Gamay Noir might be off most readers’ radar screens, but those wines are absolutely delicious.
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2017
2020 - 2027
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This is a mixed set of wines from Failla. Then again, the range now is massive. In California, the Pinots are stronger across the board than the Chardonnays, most of which I found too light and lacking in fruit, even within this style. I have also included notes on Failla’s Oregon range. There, things are more complicated because of rain during harvest. I found the Oregon Chardonnays challenging, while the Pinots are more convincing. I tasted the entire Failla range twice; once in January and then again in April. Over that time, the Pinots gained breadth, but the Chardonnays did not improve materially.
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2016
2019 - 2026
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Once again, Ehren Jordan and assistant winemaker Savanna Wright presented me with a dizzling array of wines. There are so many highlights in this range, that it is hard to single out just a few wines. I hope readers will take time to look through all of the notes in this article. For the sake of completeness, I have also included notes on Failla's growing range of Oregon Pinots. Stylistically, the Failla wines lean towards the more restrained side of the spectrum, although they are certainly not lean or lacking in either depth or richness.
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2015
2018 - 2025
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This is a stellar set of new releases from Failla and proprietor Ehren Jordan. Whereas many 2015 Pinots are quite open, readers will find the exact opposite here. The early harvest and very poor set resulted in vines with small clusters and uneven ripening. Jordan chose to pick on the early side and to use a high percentage of whole clusters to bring acidities down naturally. Those decisions have resulted in wines, especially the Pinots, that are very closed and reticent, both within the context of the year, but also relative to what readers have come to expect from Failla in recent vintages, when the wines have been much more showy early on. Even so, there are many highlights in this lineup.
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2014
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My tasting at Failla was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Sonoma earlier this year. Ehren Jordan's 2014s are superb across the board. The wines are made in a mid-weight style that balances forward fruit with the aromatics and phenolics that these cooler sites tend to confer on their own. The Pinots see around 10-20% whole clusters, which is just enough to give them attractive top notes without being overt. Essentially, theFailla wines truly capture an ideal of what the often-overused term 'balance' is all about. Most of the 2014s were in bottle when I stopped by but a few wines were scheduled to be bottled shortly thereafter. Those wines are scored in brackets. Never one to mince words, Jordan describes 2013 as the biggest crop California has ever seen. Yields were down by around 30% in 2014, which is one of the reasons these wines are so much stronger than the 2013s across the board. Simply put, 2014 is one of the most impressive vintages I have tasted at Failla.
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2013
2015 - 2025
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This is a fascinating set of wines from Failla and Ehren Jordan. With this many selections of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, what comes across is an excellent representation of the year. The 2013 Chardonnays are fabulous, while the Pinots and Syrahs are more uneven in terms of quality. The best Pinots and Syrahs in the range offer gorgeous texture and fine overall balance, but some of the wines come across as a bit light and faded. I tasted the 2013 reds twice, with consistent results. Of course, the wines had been bottled for only a short time, so that could be a factor as well. Time will tell.
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2012
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Ehren Jordan was not the only winemaker who told me that sugar conversions were unusually powerful in 2012.He tended to pick in the very moderate 12.8% potential alcohol range but most of his wines ended up between 13.6% and 14.1% alcohol.Jordan's winery, which is located on the Silverado Trail between St. Helena and Calistoga, is a great place to compare a range of (mostly Sonoma) vineyards, as he uses a modest percentage of new oak (anywhere from 10% for his Sonoma Coast chardonnay to 33% for some of his single-vineyard wines) and differences of terroir come through clearly.He also makes extensive use of concrete eggs and 500-liter puncheons.
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2012
2014 - 2019
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After many years juggling duties at both Turley and Failla, Ehren Jordan is now focused solely on his estate, but he still makes a dizzying array of wines. These Chardonnays and Pinots are essays into many of the truly great terroirs of Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino. Personally I tend to gravitate towards the Sonoma Coast wines in this range, but there are plenty of fabulous wines from which to choose here. All of the 2012s were in bottle at the time of my tastings, in January 2014.
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2011
2014 - 2023
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After many years juggling duties at both Turley and Failla, Ehren Jordan is now focused solely on his estate, but he still makes a dizzying array of wines. These Chardonnays and Pinots are essays into many of the truly great terroirs of Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino. Personally I tend to gravitate towards the Sonoma Coast wines in this range, but there are plenty of fabulous wines from which to choose here. All of the 2012s were in bottle at the time of my tastings, in January 2014. I also had a chance to revist the 2011, which have largely confirmed my impressios from last year.
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2011
2016 - 2026
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Ehren Jordan is one of those people who is maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can't imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets.
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2011
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Two thousand eleven was a year of the farmer, in which the challenge was to get the fruit ripe and minimize the spread of rot, said Ehren Jordan."The vintage is a mixed bag, depending on variety and site, but for me it's extraordinary.The wines, especially the chardonnays, can be electric, and they have relatively moderate alcohol levels.The early-ripening varieties show great precision.It's the vintage I always fantasize about in California:cool to the finish."Whether or not to ferment his many pinot cuvees with whole clusters was "a game-time decision," noted Jordan, who added that the stems were mostly ripe due to the long growing season.I found the wines a bit youthfully clenched but fascinating, with wonderfully subtle aromatics."In comparison, the 2010s are fatter wines," noted Jordan."They speak of the two heat events in August and September."
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2010
2013 - 2024
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Ehren Jordan is one of those people who is maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can't imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets.
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2010
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2009
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I was thrilled to find ripe pinot noirs here that finished with alcohol levels of 14% or less in 2009. As at wineries like Littorai, Rhys Vineyards and Anthill Farms, these wines are generally accurate reflections of their sites and their vintages. Owner/winemaker Ehren Jordan keeps the percentage of new oak to one-third, and more like 15% to 20% for his "village wines." The soil character comes through.
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2008
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2007
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Also recommended: 2006 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard Sonoma Coast (86).
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2006
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2005
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