2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
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With the 2004 vintage, Tony Soter's perennially popular pinot noir now comes entirely from estate vineyards, located in the extreme northwest corner of the Carneros appellation, on rocky volcanic soil and in a site that Soter describes as cold and windy. These low-vigor vines mature early and yield relatively low alcohol:the 2004 is only 14%, compared to the nearly 15% carried by recent vintages of the Etude pinot. Best of all:Soter now has a hundred acres of estate pinot vines to choose from. During my annual visit, Soter registered his dissatisfaction with the North Coast trend toward ever-higher alcohol levels. "It's easy to make a wine with 16% alcohol," he said. "You just wait until the grapes shrivel. But that takes the fun out of the challenge of capturing the moment when the grapes are just perfectly ripe but not overripe. "Incidentally, there's no Etude pinot blanc in 2004, as Soter is in the process of making a vineyard change:the new estate vines are expected to yield their first crop in 2006.
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Thanks to the purchase of Etude by Beringer, Tony Soter will soon have access to 100 acres of pinot noir planted in 2000, and his Heirloom pinot will eventually come from a single site on the estate vineyard near Durell Vineyard.Among other new developments here are a couple of limited cabernet bottlings from Rutherford and St. Helena fruit, and a varietal cabernet franc.Soter, incidentally, finds the cabernet tannins a bit less tight-grained in 2003 than in 2002 and considers the new crop of wines somewhat lighter. He is now stressing his vines earlier in the growing season, and he believes that this has enabled them to hold up better in the very hot and dry periods that have characterized recent Septembers in California's NorthCoast.
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