1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
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2019 - 2032
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Tony Soter's wines don't always track conventional wisdom on California vintages (recall the highly successful cabernet-based wines he made under the Etude label and for his client wineries in the difficult 1993 growing season), and so it came as no surprise that Soter considers 1999 pinot noir in Carneros "a bit over the top, a bit too hedonistic due to some shrivelling of the grapes." Accordingly, there will be no special Heirloom pinot in '99. Soter likewise believes that his 2000 Etude cabernet offers a bit more finesse than the "more husky, concentrated" 1999, but I was knocked out by the '99. In the near future, thanks to new vineyard sources, there will be additional vineyard-designated Etude bottlings from clonal selections of Bordeaux varieties covering a wide range of Napa Valley sites.
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Tony Soter describes his '99s as impressively concentrated but high in alcohol. "They're not classically balanced," he explained. "We had to pick heroically to avoid overripeness, due to a burst of heat at the end of September." Soter was high on the 2000 vintage. "The wines may have less fat and more acid spine, but we were able to pick at leisure." Soter succeeded in the difficult 1998 vintage as a result of severe crop-thinning and selection. "It was absolutely necessary to thin the crop to get uniform ripeness," he noted. "But most people won't thin a crop that already small."