1998 Cabernet Sauvignon
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Tony Soter describes his '99s as impressively concentrated but high in alcohol. "They're not classically balanced," he explained. "We had to pick heroically to avoid overripeness, due to a burst of heat at the end of September." Soter was high on the 2000 vintage. "The wines may have less fat and more acid spine, but we were able to pick at leisure." Soter succeeded in the difficult 1998 vintage as a result of severe crop-thinning and selection. "It was absolutely necessary to thin the crop to get uniform ripeness," he noted. "But most people won't thin a crop that already small."
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My tasting at Etude was preceded by an early look at what will be Tony Soter's first commercial releases from his new venture in Oregon: a rich, leesy 1997 rose sparkling wine from 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir; and a deeply colored, intensely flavored and rather powerfully structured 1998 pinot noir, from vines planted in '88. Soter, who now splits his time between the Napa and Willamette Valleys, plans to release the first Soter Vineyard wines in March of 2001.