2016 Barolo Bricco Pernice
$156 (2018)
Italy
Novello
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2019 vintage)
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2016
2025 - 2037
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2019
2024 - 2031
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I really struggled with these new releases from Elvio Cogno. For many years, Cogno has been among the top producers in Piedmont, especially once they pulled away from the more extracted approach favored by many estates in the 1990s and moved towards a more transparent style. In recent years, Cogno has begun using a large amount whole clusters in their Barolos. It’s a risky proposition. Ravera, where Cogno is based, is a distinctive and tricky site. I am not sure it is ideally suited to whole clusters, although I have some thoughts. In nearly 25 years of tasting Piedmont wines, I have learned that producers who use whole clusters typically need a number of years and considerable experimentation to dial in stem inclusion. For now, the Cogno wines have taken several steps back in terms of quality. The wines taste dried out and empty. Perhaps quality will improve, but that will take time. I tasted these wines twice, once at the winery in November 2023 and then in my office in May 2024.
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2018
2025 - 2033
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I tasted a wide range of wines during my most recent visit to Elvio Cogno. As is the case at many properties, the 2018s come across as a bit nervy, with less mid-palate resonance than is the norm. I am more optimistic about the 2019s. The star in this tasting is the 2017 Barolo Bricco Pernice, a wine that shows terrific freshness for the year, not to mention terrific overall balance.
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2017
2023 - 2037
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I tasted a wide range of wines during my most recent visit to Elvio Cogno. As is the case at many properties, the 2018s come across as a bit nervy, with less mid-palate resonance than is the norm. I am more optimistic about the 2019s. The star in this tasting is the 2017 Barolo Bricco Pernice, a wine that shows terrific freshness for the year, not to mention terrific overall balance.
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2015
2022 - 2035
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Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno's 2016s are absolutely gorgeous. Readers will get a very good idea about the strength of the year in tasting the Cascina Nuova, the estate's entry-level Barolo. The 2016s spent 30-40 days on the skins, with submerged cap fermentation. Malolatic fermentation took place in steel, after which the wines were racked to cask for élevage.
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2015
2022 - 2035
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Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno's 2015 Barolos are compelling, as are their later-release 2014 and 2013 wines. All of these Barolos share the sense of translucence and weightless energy that is the single most important signature of Ravera, where the estate and all of the vineyards are located.
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2014
2022 - 2044
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Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno's 2015 Barolos are compelling, as are their later-release 2014 and 2013 wines. All of these Barolos share the sense of translucence and weightless energy that is the single most important signature of Ravera, where the estate and all of the vineyards are located.
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2014
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Cogno's 2014 Barolos are stellar. Walter Fissore gave the 2014s 40 days on the skins, which is very long, especially for the standards of a year in which fragile grapes led most producers to do shorter fermentations and macerations. As has been the case for a number of years, all the Barolos are aged in cask. I find an inner sweetness in the 2014 that is incredibly alluring. Readers should note that in 2014, Cogno did not bottle their Barolo Cascina Nuova. The late-release 2013 Bricco Pernice and 2012 Vigna Elena round out this gorgeous set of Barolos.
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2013
2023 - 2038
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Cogno's 2014 Barolos are stellar. Walter Fissore gave the 2014s 40 days on the skins, which is very long, especially for the standards of a year in which fragile grapes led most producers to do shorter fermentations and macerations. As has been the case for a number of years, all the Barolos are aged in cask. I find an inner sweetness in the 2014 that is incredibly alluring. Readers should note that in 2014, Cogno did not bottle their Barolo Cascina Nuova. The late-release 2013 Bricco Pernice and 2012 Vigna Elena round out this gorgeous set of Barolos.
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2013
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Sadly, family patriarch Elvio Cogno passed away in 2016. His legacy is in very good hands with daughter Nadia Cogno and her husband, Valter Fissore. The Cogno 2013s are among the most tannic wines of the vintage. Some of that may be attributable to the personality of Ravera, where the winery and vineyards are located, and where the Barolos tend to be wiry and focused in style. Even so, in a vintage in which so many young Barolos possess sweet tannins, the Cogno wines are decidedly austere - in the best sense of the word. Fissore describes 2013 like 1999, but a bit warmer. That analogy certainly seems apt for these wines. The 2013s saw approximately 40 days on the skins, malolactic fermentation in steel and were aged in cask.
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2012
2020 - 2037
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Sadly, family patriarch Elvio Cogno passed away in 2016. His legacy is in very good hands with daughter Nadia Cogno and her husband, Valter Fissore. The Cogno 2013s are among the most tannic wines of the vintage. Some of that may be attributable to the personality of Ravera, where the winery and vineyards are located, and where the Barolos tend to be wiry and focused in style. Even so, in a vintage in which so many young Barolos possess sweet tannins, the Cogno wines are decidedly austere - in the best sense of the word. Fissore describes 2013 like 1999, but a bit warmer. That analogy certainly seems apt for these wines. The 2013s saw approximately 40 days on the skins, malolactic fermentation in steel and were aged in cask.
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2011
2020 - 2036
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This is a gorgeous set of Barolos from Elvio Cogno. As always, there are three vintages to consider because of the release schedules of the Bricco Pernice and Vigna Elena. The 2012s are lithe, elegant Barolos built on freshness, while the Pernice and Elena are quite representative of their respective vintages. The Cogno Barolos are increasingly translucent, weightless and super-classy.
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2010
2020 - 2040
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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.
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2010
2018 - 2040
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These are four brilliant Barolos from Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore. Cogno releases their top selections a bit later than most, so this lineup encompasses four vintages. The 2011s both capture the radiance and suppleness of the year, while the 2010 Bricco Pernice is one of the very best wines I have tasted since I started visiting the property many years ago. Cogno embodies the ethos of the 'new traditionalism' in Piedmont, in which meticulous farming, clean cellars and classic vinification and aging come together to coax all of the mystery, allure and seduction Nebbiolo is capable of.
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2010
2018 - 2030
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2009
2017 - 2034
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Proprietors Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore continue their ascent into the upper echelon of Barolo producers with these stunning Barolos. Actually, the Cogno Barolos have been fabulous for a number of years, but with each passing year they seem to get better and better. The estate sits perched atop Ravera, one of the most intriguing sites in Piedmont. These steep, limestone-rich soils yield tense Barolos that usually need a few years to soften, but are magnificent once they do. Because of its altitude, Ravera is also favored in warmer years, as the 2009 Bricco Pernice amply shows. The 2010 Cogno Nebbiolos were brought in during the first ten days of October. As is the custom here, the Barolos were aged exclusively in cask. The 2010s were bottled in mid to late August 2013.
00
2008
2016 - 2028
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The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.
I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.
For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.
00
2008
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2008
2016 - 2028
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Elvio Cogno is one of the hottest wineries in Piedmont right now. Proprietors Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore have been on tear of late, and show no signs whatsoever of slowing down. The Barolos are made in an enlightened traditional style that showcases the unique attributes of the estate's various parcels, all located in Ravera.
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2007
2013 - 2022
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Proprietors Valter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are at the top of their game. I tasted a number of Baroli from cask, all of which point to a number of stunning wines in the pipeline. As outstanding as the Baroli are, the truth is that all of the wines in the estate's lineup are fabulous from top to bottom. Cogno is one of Piemonte's up and coming stars.
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2006
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Valter Fissore was in Switzerland on the day I was able to visit the Elvio Cogno estate, so I tasted with his wife Nadia, Elvio Cogno's daughter. Cogno was a trailblazer in the town of Novello, where even today there are just a few wineries. The Cogno Barolos spend 40 days on their skins in stainless steel tanks, with the traditional cappello sommerso (submerged cap) method used, plus plenty of post-fermentation maceration. After the end of the malolactic fermentations, the wines go into large barrels (the Cascina Nuova gets a bit of used barriques). Interestingly, Nadia told me that she prefers 2007 to 2008, explaining that "2008 is easier, and has the same smell of pinot noir herbs across the board, while the 2007s have more structure, richness and alcohol and are becoming drinkable now. They're more typical Barolo."
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2006
2016 - 2031
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Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. The Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are fermented with native yeasts, see lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and are aged for 2-3 years in large, neutral oak casks.
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2005
2020 - 2035
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Walter Fissore calls 2005 a cool vintage with naturally low yields that produced deeply colored wines with good fruit. Today, the 2005s are just beginning to show their potential and pedigree. This is a strong set of wines from a young estate that has gone from strength to strength in more recent vintages.
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2015 - 2025
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This is an outstanding set of new releases from Cogno, one of Piedmont's under the radar stars. Proprietors Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are doing great work at their small, family-run property. From top to bottom, all of these wines merit your attention. The Barolos in particular are special. Fermentation is done with the traditional submerged cap method and the wines stay in contact with the skins for an additional two weeks or so, taking the total time of fermentation/maceration to roughly 30 days, a bit longer than had been the case in the recent past. Like many estates in Piedmont, Cogno has increased the amount of large, neutral oak used for the Barolos and is relying less on small French oak barrels.
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