2019 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Gianluca Grasso made some of the most impressive Barolos of the vintage. Harvest for the core Nebbiolo parcels took place between October 17 and 23, very much on the later side for the year. The wines were done with long, submerged cap macerations and aged in cask. Perhaps more importantly, Gianluca Grasso is among the producers who have developed a very distinctive and personal style. The wines are quite classic in some ways but also contemporary in their sense of polish. I also revisited the 2019 Barolos, which are just as impressive as they were last year. The just-bottled 2019 Riserva Rüncot is quite promising. As a reminder, the Rüncot is the only Barolo here aged in French oak barrique. Long aging in barrel and a light touch mean wood is rarely intrusive in that wine, especially with cellaring.

I tasted a number of exceptional wines at Elio Grasso this fall. The 2019s are gorgeous, vivid Barolos that capture the best the year had to offer. As always, the wines see lengthy macerations and are aged entirely in cask. The Gavarini Chiniera offers a bit more brilliance and vertical lift, while the Ginestra Casa Matè is a richer, broader wine. I also tasted the 2016 Barolo Riserva Rüncot, which spent a whopping sixty days on the skins and four years in 100% new French oak, none of which is evident. It is a riveting wine, to say the least. The Grassos embody all the values of Piedmont’s historic artisan families. It’s great to see them at the top.