2013 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Elio Grasso was my first stop on my fall tasting trip. As has been the case for a number of years, Grasso's Barolos sit at a very high level within the hierarchy of Piedmont's top estates. The 2014 growing season was quite challenging. Gianluca Grasso told me he deleafed more than normal in order to get the most Mother Nature wanted to offer in terms of ripeness. Hail, disease and sorting resulted in a loss of 30-40% of the crop. In the end, Grasso decided to bottle a single Barolo, as described in the accompanying tasting note. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s, which are just as special as they were the year prior.

Gianluca Grasso describes 2013 is a year with very long maturation cycle in which the grapes achieved full phenolic ripeness late into October. In general terms, the Ginestra Casa Matè is the broadest of the Barolos because of the high percentage of clay in the vineyard. The Gavarini, which features a combination of limestone and sand, is picked later and tends to yield more focused, pointed Barolos. Rüncot is a selection from within Gavarini that is bottled only in the best vintages.

Grasso is among the producers who deftly bridge modern and traditional styles with stylish, powerful wines that also age beautifully. The 2013s spent 35 days on the skins. The Gavarini and Casa Matè were aged in cask, while the Rüncot was aged in French oak. The 2013 Barolos are terrific, but I was equally impressed with the 2012s, both of which have shut down considerably, a good sign for the future.