2012 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Gianluca Grasso describes 2013 is a year with very long maturation cycle in which the grapes achieved full phenolic ripeness late into October. In general terms, the Ginestra Casa Matè is the broadest of the Barolos because of the high percentage of clay in the vineyard. The Gavarini, which features a combination of limestone and sand, is picked later and tends to yield more focused, pointed Barolos. Rüncot is a selection from within Gavarini that is bottled only in the best vintages.

Grasso is among the producers who deftly bridge modern and traditional styles with stylish, powerful wines that also age beautifully. The 2013s spent 35 days on the skins. The Gavarini and Casa Matè were aged in cask, while the Rüncot was aged in French oak. The 2013 Barolos are terrific, but I was equally impressed with the 2012s, both of which have shut down considerably, a good sign for the future.

What a total thrill it is to taste these 2012s from Elio Grasso. This was a tasting I did not want to end. Gianluca Grasso made two of the most captivating 2012 Barolos I have tasted so far. Grasso describes 2012 as offering elements of both 2011 and 2010, with the early drinkability of the former and the structure of the latter. I suppose that's as good a description as any, although in my view, the 2012s really deserve to be taken on their own rather than being compared with other vintages. Grasso's 2012 Barolos are rich, sumptuous and head-spinning in their total beauty. To get this level of richness, Grasso did quite a bit of bleeding of the young musts. A standard submerged cap fermentation with 30-35 days on the skins followed, with gentle and long extractions, before the wines were racked into cask for aging. Over the last decade or so, Grasso has stepped up quality in a meaningful way. There seems to be no limit where this small family-run estate can go from here. In 2012, Grasso did not bottle his flagship Barolo Riserva Rüncot, instead, all of the fruit went into that vintage's Langhe Nebbiolo.