2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Gianluca Grasso reports that 2010 saw the longest vegetative cycle in twenty years, with an early flowering and a classic, late October harvest. In 2010, the Gavarini is the truly exceptional, even more so than is typically the case. Grasso typically picks Gavarini 2-3 days later than Ginestra, but in 2010 he waited a full 10 days, and that longer hang time seems to have given the wine an extra degree of profoundness that is a thrill to behold. Readers who would like to learn more about this historic estate might enjoy my recent video interview with Gianluca Grasso.

Like most Burgundy lovers who make nebbiolo in Piemonte, Gianluca Grasso is a huge fan of the 2010 vintage."Two thousand eight was great, but 2010 is the next step up," he told me in September."It was outstanding from the beginning and it's hard to find a flaw.The wines are Burgundian now but 2010 will be a great Barolo classic with a capital B in 15 or 20 years."The key to the quality of the 2010s at Grasso was full phenolic ripeness."Following an early budbreak, the vegetative cycle was very long:we picked from October 20 through November 2," said Grasso."The seeds were completely brown but not overripe, since we don't pull leaves.The 2010s are deeper than the 2008s but also elegant."In comparison, said Grasso, 2009 brought 80% phenolic maturity, with greener seeds."It's a feminine, approachable vintage but not a classic.We had a lot of spring and summer rains, and mudslides.We did a severe green harvest and only used grapes from the middle to the top of our vineyards to make Barolo; we declassified the lower portion of each vineyard."Needless to say, Grasso's Barolo production was down sharply in 2009, and no Runcot was made. (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd.,www.martinscottwines.com; and Sussex Wine Merchants, www.sussexwine.com)