2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

This is a stunning set of wines from Elio Grasso. As always, I tasted the 2021s next to the preceding vintage, which provided a terrific opportunity to compare the wines. I found the 2020s just as compelling as they were last year. The 2021s are the proverbial “iron fist in a velvet glove.” While many 2021s offer a good deal of relatively early approachability, the 2021s here require cellaring. Interestingly, today the Ginestra Casa Matè and Gavarini Chiniera feel a bit inverted in their personalities. The Ginestra comes across as a touch linear in its construction, while the Gavarini shows a bit more volume. I also tasted several vintages of the Barolo Riserva Rüncot that suggest there are great things in store here. These remain gorgeous, beautifully crystalline Barolos.

This is a stunning set of wines from Elio Grasso. As always, I tasted the 2021s next to the preceding vintage, which provided a terrific opportunity to compare the wines. I found the 2020s just as compelling as they were last year. The 2021s are the proverbial “iron fist in a velvet glove.” While many 2021s offer a good deal of relatively early approachability, the 2021s here require cellaring. Interestingly, today the Ginestra Casa Matè and Gavarini Chiniera feel a bit inverted in their personalities. The Ginestra comes across as a touch linear in its construction, while the Gavarini shows a bit more volume. I also tasted several vintages of the Barolo Riserva Rüncot that suggest there are great things in store here. These remain gorgeous, beautifully crystalline Barolos.

Gianluca Grasso made some of the most impressive Barolos of the vintage. Harvest for the core Nebbiolo parcels took place between October 17 and 23, very much on the later side for the year. The wines were done with long, submerged cap macerations and aged in cask. Perhaps more importantly, Gianluca Grasso is among the producers who have developed a very distinctive and personal style. The wines are quite classic in some ways but also contemporary in their sense of polish. I also revisited the 2019 Barolos, which are just as impressive as they were last year. The just-bottled 2019 Riserva Rüncot is quite promising. As a reminder, the Rüncot is the only Barolo here aged in French oak barrique. Long aging in barrel and a light touch mean wood is rarely intrusive in that wine, especially with cellaring.

Gianluca Grasso made some of the most impressive Barolos of the vintage. Harvest for the core Nebbiolo parcels took place between October 17 and 23, very much on the later side for the year. The wines were done with long, submerged cap macerations and aged in cask. Perhaps more importantly, Gianluca Grasso is among the producers who have developed a very distinctive and personal style. The wines are quite classic in some ways but also contemporary in their sense of polish. I also revisited the 2019 Barolos, which are just as impressive as they were last year. The just-bottled 2019 Riserva Rüncot is quite promising. As a reminder, the Rüncot is the only Barolo here aged in French oak barrique. Long aging in barrel and a light touch mean wood is rarely intrusive in that wine, especially with cellaring.

I tasted a number of exceptional wines at Elio Grasso this fall. The 2019s are gorgeous, vivid Barolos that capture the best the year had to offer. As always, the wines see lengthy macerations and are aged entirely in cask. The Gavarini Chiniera offers a bit more brilliance and vertical lift, while the Ginestra Casa Matè is a richer, broader wine. I also tasted the 2016 Barolo Riserva Rüncot, which spent a whopping sixty days on the skins and four years in 100% new French oak, none of which is evident. It is a riveting wine, to say the least. The Grassos embody all the values of Piedmont’s historic artisan families. It’s great to see them at the top.

I tasted a number of exceptional wines at Elio Grasso this fall. The 2019s are gorgeous, vivid Barolos that capture the best the year had to offer. As always, the wines see lengthy macerations and are aged entirely in cask. The Gavarini Chiniera offers a bit more brilliance and vertical lift, while the Ginestra Casa Matè is a richer, broader wine. I also tasted the 2016 Barolo Riserva Rüncot, which spent a whopping sixty days on the skins and four years in 100% new French oak, none of which is evident. It is a riveting wine, to say the least. The Grassos embody all the values of Piedmont’s historic artisan families. It’s great to see them at the top.

The 2018 Elio Grasso Barolos will give readers a very good idea of how the challenges of the growing season played out in different sites. Specifically, the Gavarini Chiniera seems to have handled the rigors of the year more successfully than the Ginestra Casa Matè. "We left more cover crop in the vineyards than normal to help soak up excess moisture, and we did two passes to reduce the crop,” said Gianluca Grasso. “Fermentations were on the shorter side for us, but we still did submerged cap maceration at the end.” Production is about 13,000 bottles each for the Gavarini Chiniera and Ginestra Casa Matè, down significantly from the 20,000 or so that is more typical. Grasso fans will not want to miss the 2015 Riserva Rüncot, which is also being released this year.

Gianluca Grasso made some of the most thrilling wines of 2017. The wines stand out for their exceptional finesse. Grasso is one of a handful of estates with 2017s that approach the level of the 2016s. That is the highest compliment I can pay the wines. The Gavarini is a bit more focused, while the Ginestra is a bit darker and broader. Both wines are riveting. Macerations were a bit shorter than normal, but with submerged cap vinification, which is typical here. As always, the Barolos are aged in cask. Readers should note that there is no Barolo Riserva Rüncot in 2017. The next release for that wine is the 2015.

"We are looking for 200 days between budbreak and harvest, that is typical for us,” Grasso told me. “In 2017, we had 185, so the growing season was shorter than normal, but not as extreme as 2011, where we had 170 days from budbreak to harvest. We did two green harvests to try to balance the vineyard as much as possible." That certainly seems to have worked. These are special wines from one of Piedmont's most admired families.

Elio Grasso’s 2016s are some of the most reticent wines I tasted. I would have to go back pretty far to find another vintage in which the wines are so taut and piercing in the early going. Gianluca Grasso gave his 2016s a whopping 60 days on the skins. As always, the wines are aged in cask, the exception being the Rüncot, which is aged in French oak. Readers will have to be especially patient with the 2016s.

Elio Grasso’s 2016s are some of the most reticent wines I tasted. I would have to go back pretty far to find another vintage in which the wines are so taut and piercing in the early going. Gianluca Grasso gave his 2016s a whopping 60 days on the skins. As always, the wines are aged in cask, the exception being the Rüncot, which is aged in French oak. Readers will have to be especially patient with the 2016s.

Gianluca Grasso's 2015 Barolos are wonderfully nuanced, polished wines that capture everything the vintage had to offer. Grasso gave his 2015s 25-30 days of fermentation, followed by another 10 days or so of submerged cap fermentation. The malos were done in steel and the wine saw about two and a half years of cask prior to being bottled.

Elio Grasso was my first stop on my fall tasting trip. As has been the case for a number of years, Grasso's Barolos sit at a very high level within the hierarchy of Piedmont's top estates. The 2014 growing season was quite challenging. Gianluca Grasso told me he deleafed more than normal in order to get the most Mother Nature wanted to offer in terms of ripeness. Hail, disease and sorting resulted in a loss of 30-40% of the crop. In the end, Grasso decided to bottle a single Barolo, as described in the accompanying tasting note. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s, which are just as special as they were the year prior.

Gianluca Grasso describes 2013 is a year with very long maturation cycle in which the grapes achieved full phenolic ripeness late into October. In general terms, the Ginestra Casa Matè is the broadest of the Barolos because of the high percentage of clay in the vineyard. The Gavarini, which features a combination of limestone and sand, is picked later and tends to yield more focused, pointed Barolos. Rüncot is a selection from within Gavarini that is bottled only in the best vintages.

Grasso is among the producers who deftly bridge modern and traditional styles with stylish, powerful wines that also age beautifully. The 2013s spent 35 days on the skins. The Gavarini and Casa Matè were aged in cask, while the Rüncot was aged in French oak. The 2013 Barolos are terrific, but I was equally impressed with the 2012s, both of which have shut down considerably, a good sign for the future.

Gianluca Grasso describes 2013 is a year with very long maturation cycle in which the grapes achieved full phenolic ripeness late into October. In general terms, the Ginestra Casa Matè is the broadest of the Barolos because of the high percentage of clay in the vineyard. The Gavarini, which features a combination of limestone and sand, is picked later and tends to yield more focused, pointed Barolos. Rüncot is a selection from within Gavarini that is bottled only in the best vintages.

Grasso is among the producers who deftly bridge modern and traditional styles with stylish, powerful wines that also age beautifully. The 2013s spent 35 days on the skins. The Gavarini and Casa Matè were aged in cask, while the Rüncot was aged in French oak. The 2013 Barolos are terrific, but I was equally impressed with the 2012s, both of which have shut down considerably, a good sign for the future.

What a total thrill it is to taste these 2012s from Elio Grasso. This was a tasting I did not want to end. Gianluca Grasso made two of the most captivating 2012 Barolos I have tasted so far. Grasso describes 2012 as offering elements of both 2011 and 2010, with the early drinkability of the former and the structure of the latter. I suppose that's as good a description as any, although in my view, the 2012s really deserve to be taken on their own rather than being compared with other vintages. Grasso's 2012 Barolos are rich, sumptuous and head-spinning in their total beauty. To get this level of richness, Grasso did quite a bit of bleeding of the young musts. A standard submerged cap fermentation with 30-35 days on the skins followed, with gentle and long extractions, before the wines were racked into cask for aging. Over the last decade or so, Grasso has stepped up quality in a meaningful way. There seems to be no limit where this small family-run estate can go from here. In 2012, Grasso did not bottle his flagship Barolo Riserva Rüncot, instead, all of the fruit went into that vintage's Langhe Nebbiolo.

Gianluca Grasso describes 2011, with its very early flowering, as great for Barbera but less optimal for Nebbiolo. Warm temperatures persisted for most of the year. In an effort to keep the wines fresh, Grasso picked a little earlier than he would have ideally liked, something that is more evident today in the Ginestra and Gavarini. As always, both the Gavarini and Ginestra are aged in cask. Stylistically, the Grasso Barolos represent a modern-day interpretation of traditionalism that relies on impeccable farming, a very clean cellar and a mostly classic approach to winemaking. Sadly, there is no Barolo 2009 Riserva Rüncot this year, the only Grasso Barolo done entirely in French oak. Readers will have to wait for the 2008, after which the next vintages are 2010 and 2013.

Gianluca Grasso's 2011 Barolos are more than worthy follow-ups to the stellar 2010s. Grasso gave his 2011 Barolos 23 days on the skins. I tasted the 2011s from tank just prior to bottling. In 2011, Grasso did not bottle the Riserva Rüncot, instead that fruit went into the Langhe Nebbiolo.

Like most Burgundy lovers who make nebbiolo in Piemonte, Gianluca Grasso is a huge fan of the 2010 vintage."Two thousand eight was great, but 2010 is the next step up," he told me in September."It was outstanding from the beginning and it's hard to find a flaw.The wines are Burgundian now but 2010 will be a great Barolo classic with a capital B in 15 or 20 years."The key to the quality of the 2010s at Grasso was full phenolic ripeness."Following an early budbreak, the vegetative cycle was very long:we picked from October 20 through November 2," said Grasso."The seeds were completely brown but not overripe, since we don't pull leaves.The 2010s are deeper than the 2008s but also elegant."In comparison, said Grasso, 2009 brought 80% phenolic maturity, with greener seeds."It's a feminine, approachable vintage but not a classic.We had a lot of spring and summer rains, and mudslides.We did a severe green harvest and only used grapes from the middle to the top of our vineyards to make Barolo; we declassified the lower portion of each vineyard."Needless to say, Grasso's Barolo production was down sharply in 2009, and no Runcot was made. (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd.,www.martinscottwines.com; and Sussex Wine Merchants, www.sussexwine.com)

Like most Burgundy lovers who make nebbiolo in Piemonte, Gianluca Grasso is a huge fan of the 2010 vintage. "Two thousand eight was great, but 2010 is the next step up," he told me in September. "It was outstanding from the beginning and it's hard to find a flaw. The wines are Burgundian now but 2010 will be a great Barolo classic with a capital B in 15 or 20 years." The key to the quality of the 2010s at Grasso was full phenolic ripeness. "Following an early budbreak, the vegetative cycle was very long: we picked from October 20 through November 2," said Grasso. "The seeds were completely brown but not overripe, since we don't pull leaves. The 2010s are deeper than the 2008s but also elegant." In comparison, said Grasso, 2009 brought 80% phenolic maturity, with greener seeds. "It's a feminine, approachable vintage but not a classic. We had a lot of spring and summer rains, and mudslides. We did a severe green harvest and only used grapes from the middle to the top of our vineyards to make Barolo; we declassified the lower portion of each vineyard." Needless to say, Grasso's Barolo production was down sharply in 2009, and no Runcot was made. (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd.,www.martinscottwines.com; and Sussex Wine Merchants, www.sussexwine.com)

Gianluca Grasso has been making some of the very best wines in Barolo for several vintages, but his 2009s are arguably the best examples of the kind of work that has elevated this small, family-run domaine to a position among Piedmont's top echelon. Unlike Burgundy, where the choicest vineyards are usually regarded to be mid-slope (a position that tends to encourage the best soil and climate balance) in Piedmont, vineyards designations often run all the way from the valley floor to the very top of the hill. In challenging years, quality can vary tremendously within the same vineyard. Vintage 2009 is a perfect example. Grasso bottled only the top portion of his vineyards, where the altitude helped maintain an element of freshness. Production is down a whopping 60%, but as a result of these sacrifices driven by a relentless pursuit of quality Grasso has been rewarded with two beautiful 2009 Barolos that are worthy follow-ups to the celestial 2008s. Sadly, there is no 2009 Runcot Riserva.

I could feel my heart racing as I tasted Gianluca Grasso's 2008s. Both 2008 Baroli are drop-dead gorgeous wines that capture the purest essence of hillside Monforte brilliance. The 2008s have begun to shut down since I first tasted them from bottle in November, 2011. The focus, length and sheer pedigree, however, have always been on full display. My advice? Buy the wines and forget about them for a good decade-plus. Two decades would be better. These remain some of the most fairly priced, ageworthy 2008s on the planet. Congratulations to the Grasso family for two monumental wines that embody everything that makes Barolo so magnificent. These are both must-have wines.

Gianluca Grasso, who has taken his family's wines to a higher level in recent years, has made a couple of extraordinary Barolos in vintage 2008, a vintage he says is the best for Barolo since 2001. "The long vegetative cycle, with cool nights, allowed us to get 100% ripeness," he explained. "But 2009 is just okay for nebbiolo due to irregular weather." The family's view of the vintage is obviously colored by the fact that they lost some vines around the edges of their Gavarini vineyard during mudslides in March and April. I got the impression that Gianluca's father Elio is thrilled to be able to devote full time to his vineyards, although when I asked him if he still controls 51% of the vote when it comes to cellar decisions, he said, "oh yes." Since the 2008 harvest, the Grassos have been testing out a new conveyor-belt sorting table made by a company in Veneto, which uses a plastic hand and an adjustable net that allows them to prevent bits of stems from falling through. "We can even block the larger berries, if we want," said Gianluca. "It's necessary to go slowly, but we get nothing green in the juice." Gianluca, a long-time Burgundy lover, told me "in my next life I want to be born in Burgundy." (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ )

Gianluca Grasso, who has taken his family's wines to a higher level in recent years, has made a couple of extraordinary Barolos in vintage 2008, a vintage he says is the best for Barolo since 2001. "The long vegetative cycle, with cool nights, allowed us to get 100% ripeness," he explained. "But 2009 is just okay for nebbiolo due to irregular weather." The family's view of the vintage is obviously colored by the fact that they lost some vines around the edges of their Gavarini vineyard during mudslides in March and April. I got the impression that Gianluca's father Elio is thrilled to be able to devote full time to his vineyards, although when I asked him if he still controls 51% of the vote when it comes to cellar decisions, he said, "oh yes." Since the 2008 harvest, the Grassos have been testing out a new conveyor-belt sorting table made by a company in Veneto, which uses a plastic hand and an adjustable net that allows them to prevent bits of stems from falling through. "We can even block the larger berries, if we want," said Gianluca. "It's necessary to go slowly, but we get nothing green in the juice." Gianluca, a long-time Burgundy lover, told me "in my next life I want to be born in Burgundy." (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ )

These 2007 Baroli from Elio Grasso are worthy successors to the stunning 2006s. Readers will have to wait until 2012 for the 2006 Barolo Rüncot. The more time passes, the greater my esteem grows for this underappreciated and often overlooked grower in Monforte. To be sure Domenico Clerico, Conterno-Fantino and Aldo Conterno get most of the attention in Monforte, but at their best Grasso's Baroli more than hold their own. A recent magnum of the 2000 Rüncot was quite possibly the finest and most elegant 100% new French oak- aged Barolo I have ever tasted. Grasso's 2007s Baroli saw 30 days of contact on the skins followed by a full 30 months in large, neutral oak casks.

I was deeply impressed with the Barolos I tasted this year from Elio and Gianluca Grasso. This is an important vintage for the Grasso family, and readers will want to get their hands on these exceptionally pure, beautiful wines. In discussing their 2006s, many producers draw comparisons with their 1989s. This is one of the cases where such a comparison is quite accurate. Speaking of which, readers may want to take a look at my notes on Grasso's 1989s (and 1990s too) in my What About Now article on this site. Grasso farms three vineyards in Monforte; Ginestra, Gavarini and Rüncot, all of which have their own unique qualities. Harvest times can vary as much as 7-10 days from parcel to parcel. The Barolos are fermented using the traditional submerged cap method and see a full month of maceration on the skins. Malolactic fermentation is done in steel, and the wines are subsequently aged in cask. Despite all of their success, Elio, Marina, Gianluca and Francesca Grasso, along with their cellarmaster Enrico, remain some of the most unassuming, humble and classiest people readers will meet in Piedmont.

x000D Gianluca Grasso was marveling over the range of vintages between 2004 and 2008 when I stopped by to taste with him in September. "Vintages 2008 and 2006 are similar," he said. "Both are great and were made from grapes picked late, after a long vegetative cycle. In '08 we harvested until October 25. Both '08 and '06 brought classic weather and ripening conditions for Barolo nebbiolo, with a lot of hot temperatures. We could do long macerations. Two thousand four was also very good-I prefer it to 2005, a year in which we had summer rains. We picked 80% of our Barolo before the early October rain in '05 but I wouldn't say the fruit reached 100% phenolic ripeness." Grasso continues to use micro-oxygenation to make his dolcetto and Langhe nebbiolo more fruity and approachable. Beginning with the 2007 vintage, he has also added dry ice to this same fruit in the destemmer. This produces "micro holes" in the berries, which Grasso says releases an enzyme that ultimately gives the wines a fruitier, more floral and more elegant character. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

Elio Grasso's 2005s are terrific, especially within the context of the year. Sadly hail in August took with it 40% of the crop. Both wines have plenty of tannic clout to support cellaring, although this tasting suggests the Gavarini will outlive the Ginestra.

x000D Gianluca Grasso was marveling over the range of vintages between 2004 and 2008 when I stopped by to taste with him in September. "Vintages 2008 and 2006 are similar," he said. "Both are great and were made from grapes picked late, after a long vegetative cycle. In '08 we harvested until October 25. Both '08 and '06 brought classic weather and ripening conditions for Barolo nebbiolo, with a lot of hot temperatures. We could do long macerations. Two thousand four was also very good-I prefer it to 2005, a year in which we had summer rains. We picked 80% of our Barolo before the early October rain in '05 but I wouldn't say the fruit reached 100% phenolic ripeness." Grasso continues to use micro-oxygenation to make his dolcetto and Langhe nebbiolo more fruity and approachable. Beginning with the 2007 vintage, he has also added dry ice to this same fruit in the destemmer. This produces "micro holes" in the berries, which Grasso says releases an enzyme that ultimately gives the wines a fruitier, more floral and more elegant character. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

Gianluca Grasso is one of Piedmont's emerging young growers and winemakers. As always, the wines here are characterized by a strong sense of discipline, vision and elegance. The estate decided against producing its Riserva Rüncot in 2005, but these two very fine Barolos deserve careful consideration. Stylistically the wines capture the best of modern and traditional schools, with the former represented by the work in the vineyards and the latter by the approach in the cellar, with the exception of the Rüncot, which is aged in small French oak barrels. The 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos I tasted from cask and tank are perhaps even more promising.

Gianluca Grasso describes 2004 as a year with high quality and high yields, which was pretty much the case across the region. I have always admired the 2004s, as they represent an early inflection point towards the high level of quality that is now the norm here. I must say, though, I am disappointed with the irregularity the Ginestra Casa Matè has shown in several recent tastings.

Elio Grasso's wines are made in a unique, crisply articulated style that highlights balance and harmony over sheer power. “For our 2004 Barolos we did roughly 30 days of maceration in stainless steel, where the wines also completed their malolactic fermentations,” says Gianluca Grasso. “The wines were then racked into 25 hectoliter barrels where they aged for two and a half years. The Rüncot saw 35-40 days of maceration and may spend up to 40 months in 100% new French oak.”

Gianluca Grasso describes his family's 2004 Barolos as a bit more powerful now than the 2001s, with more body. The earlier vintage is more elegant, he added. Even in the copious growing season of 2004, vine yields for the estate's Barolo crus were barely 35 hectoliters per hectare. "Two thousand four was an outstanding vintage with great weather conditions from beginning to end," said Grasso. "We had rain when we needed it, and we got cool weather in late August and early September when we needed it. " Grasso is also a big fan of the 2006s, which he finds to be well-balanced wines. "When the grapes are perfect, as they were in both 2004 and 2006," he said, "it's a pleasure to be in the winery. " (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

These two Barolos from Elio Grasso have aged well. Gianluca Grasso gave his 2003s 20 days on the skins followed by 2.5 years in cask. In 2003, Grasso did not bottle their top of the line Barolo Runcot.

Gianluca Grasso describes his family's 2004 Barolos as a bit more powerful now than the 2001s, with more body. The earlier vintage is more elegant, he added. Even in the copious growing season of 2004, vine yields for the estate's Barolo crus were barely 35 hectoliters per hectare. "Two thousand four was an outstanding vintage with great weather conditions from beginning to end," said Grasso. "We had rain when we needed it, and we got cool weather in late August and early September when we needed it. " Grasso is also a big fan of the 2006s, which he finds to be well-balanced wines. "When the grapes are perfect, as they were in both 2004 and 2006," he said, "it's a pleasure to be in the winery. " (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

Elio Grasso is one of those producers who, for some reason, doesn't seem to receive the recognition he deserves. While that is unfortunate, it does mean the wines are often available at very reasonable prices.

These are three fine Baroli from the Grasso family. Personally, I think the wines improved markedly after 2004 or so, but the 2001s have nevertheless aged nicely.

Tucked away off the main roads in Monforte, Elio Grasso's estate is in one of the most peaceful, idyllic spots in the Langhe. For some reason this producer is not as well-known as some of his colleagues, yet in my conversations with other winemakers Grasso is always spoken of with the highest admiration and esteem. The estate's approach is based on rigorous attention to the vineyards, where low yields are the rule. From their fruit in the Gavarini and Ginestra crus in Monforte the estate makes a wide range of excellent wines in a unique style that marries elements of both traditional and modern styles. The Chiniera and Casa Maté Barolos see fermentation of about 12-16 days, and the wines are aged in 25 hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels, while the Rüncot is a more modern-styled wine made from lower yields and aged in barriques.

Gianluca Grasso says the family estate sacrificed 60% of the crop in 2002 by doing two green harvests plus a third selection in the cellar in quest of riper fruit, yet will only make a single Barolo. "The vineyard designations should be reserved for the best expressions of our parcels," he explained. The scorching summer of 2003 brought virtually the opposite problems as 2002. "If I could have stuck leaves on the vines to protect the grapes from sun, I would have," Grasso told me. "It was a big mistake to de-leaf in 2003. "Grasso is high on his 2001 Barolos. "It was a fantastic summer for nebbiolo, with great harvest weather; the fruit was ripe but not overripe," he explained, adding that his other recent favorites are '98 and '96. The wines here have grown in aromatic purity and complexity in recent vintages. Grasso told me that, beginning in 2000, with each racking he scrapes a bit of wet wood from the barrels (and also uses sulfur); this technique he says, has eliminated most of the animal and leather tastes in the wines and facilitated better oxygenation during elevage. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

Elio Grasso is among the growers who captured the essence of 2000. Grasso remains one of the most overlooked, under the radar producers in Piedmont. I buy the wines every year, but never seem to be able to keep my hands off the bottles. The estate's 2000 are marvelous.

Gianluca Grasso says the family estate sacrificed 60% of the crop in 2002 by doing two green harvests plus a third selection in the cellar in quest of riper fruit, yet will only make a single Barolo. "The vineyard designations should be reserved for the best expressions of our parcels," he explained. The scorching summer of 2003 brought virtually the opposite problems as 2002. "If I could have stuck leaves on the vines to protect the grapes from sun, I would have," Grasso told me. "It was a big mistake to de-leaf in 2003. "Grasso is high on his 2001 Barolos. "It was a fantastic summer for nebbiolo, with great harvest weather; the fruit was ripe but not overripe," he explained, adding that his other recent favorites are '98 and '96. The wines here have grown in aromatic purity and complexity in recent vintages. Grasso told me that, beginning in 2000, with each racking he scrapes a bit of wet wood from the barrels (and also uses sulfur); this technique he says, has eliminated most of the animal and leather tastes in the wines and facilitated better oxygenation during elevage. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; and Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA)

This was my first visit to the Grassos' beautiful estate tucked into the hills behind Monforte d'Alba, overlooking the Gavarini vineyard. Elio Grasso's son Gianluca has joined his father since getting a degree in economics, and now does most of the cellar work while Elio handles the vineyards. The Grasso wines have long boasted strong material, but today's bottles appear to be more consistent, and perhaps finer, than the wines of the mid-'90s, with a more obvious emphasis on fruit than formerly. The Grassos offer three single-vineyard Barolos, two made in a more traditional style and the third, the Runcot, aged for 30 months in all new barriques The Barolos are fermented in vertical stainless steel tanks in which automatic pumpovers are done, and spend 10 to 15 days on their skins. The cellar is warmed to 20oC to facilitate the malolactic fermentations, which normally finish in December. Gianluca Grasso uses micro-oxidation to avoid racking his barbera and nebbiolo cuvees but prefers more traditional racking every three months for Barolo. Grasso describes 2000 as a warm, alcoholic style, from a rather low crop level. (2001 was a bigger, fruitier crop in comparison, he adds.) Like a number of his colleagues in Monforte d'Alba, Grasso compares '99 in style to '96, and feels that this vintage will be capable of long bottle aging. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ and Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY)

Elio Grasso's 1999 Barolos are strong, but since these wines were made, Grasso has exploded into the top ranks in Piedmont, with a series of dazzling vintages that are frankly on another level vis-à-vis the 1999s. Still, there is plenty to like here. Although today all of Grasso's vineyards are grouped under the Ginestra menzione, all it takes is one taste of these wines to understand just how different Gavarini (including Rüncot) and the real Ginestra truly are.

This was my first visit to the Grassos' beautiful estate tucked into the hills behind Monforte d'Alba, overlooking the Gavarini vineyard. Elio Grasso's son Gianluca has joined his father since getting a degree in economics, and now does most of the cellar work while Elio handles the vineyards. The Grasso wines have long boasted strong material, but today's bottles appear to be more consistent, and perhaps finer, than the wines of the mid-'90s, with a more obvious emphasis on fruit than formerly. The Grassos offer three single-vineyard Barolos, two made in a more traditional style and the third, the Runcot, aged for 30 months in all new barriques The Barolos are fermented in vertical stainless steel tanks in which automatic pumpovers are done, and spend 10 to 15 days on their skins. The cellar is warmed to 20oC to facilitate the malolactic fermentations, which normally finish in December. Gianluca Grasso uses micro-oxidation to avoid racking his barbera and nebbiolo cuvees but prefers more traditional racking every three months for Barolo. Grasso describes 2000 as a warm, alcoholic style, from a rather low crop level. (2001 was a bigger, fruitier crop in comparison, he adds.) Like a number of his colleagues in Monforte d'Alba, Grasso compares '99 in style to '96, and feels that this vintage will be capable of long bottle aging. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ and Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY)

This was my first visit to the Grassos' beautiful estate tucked into the hills behind Monforte d'Alba, overlooking the Gavarini vineyard. Elio Grasso's son Gianluca has joined his father since getting a degree in economics, and now does most of the cellar work while Elio handles the vineyards. The Grasso wines have long boasted strong material, but today's bottles appear to be more consistent, and perhaps finer, than the wines of the mid-'90s, with a more obvious emphasis on fruit than formerly. The Grassos offer three single-vineyard Barolos, two made in a more traditional style and the third, the Runcot, aged for 30 months in all new barriques The Barolos are fermented in vertical stainless steel tanks in which automatic pumpovers are done, and spend 10 to 15 days on their skins. The cellar is warmed to 20oC to facilitate the malolactic fermentations, which normally finish in December. Gianluca Grasso uses micro-oxidation to avoid racking his barbera and nebbiolo cuvees but prefers more traditional racking every three months for Barolo. Grasso describes 2000 as a warm, alcoholic style, from a rather low crop level. (2001 was a bigger, fruitier crop in comparison, he adds.) Like a number of his colleagues in Monforte d'Alba, Grasso compares '99 in style to '96, and feels that this vintage will be capable of long bottle aging. (Importers include Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ and Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY)

In 1996 Gianluca Grasso had been working at this family's estate for two years. These Barolos clearly capture the estate at the beginning of a generational transition that has taken these wines into a totally different realm of quality in recent times. The 1996s were made with the decidedly rustic, artisanal tools that were available at the time, including, among other things, the absence of temperature control in the cellar.

By the time I arrived at Elio Grasso's beautiful winery in November 2009 I had tasted nearly all of Piedmont's benchmark 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Still, nothing could have prepared me for the wines I would encounter. Grasso's 1989 and 1990 Barolos are monumental, epic wines of the very highest level that easily stand side by side with the finest wines produced in both vintages. Massively concentrated and dense, the wines will easily last for another 20 years and quite likely longer. Elio Grasso came to making wine somewhat accidentally after the passing of his father. In fact, he didn't drink wine until his mid-30s! The family originally sold wine in bulk, but when that became too demanding, the estate turned to selling the fruit itself. Elio Grasso's first official vintage was 1979 although he also made a small amount wine in 1978 from fruit he was unable to sell. Curiously, Grasso describes himself as a poor taster of wines, and during this time he was assisted by Pietro Ballario, who had worked at Marchesi di Gresy in Barbaresco. It is quite evident Grasso is much more passionate about working in the vineyards than in the cellar. One of the things that is most remarkable about these wines is that they were made with no modern-day technology whatsoever. There was little or no green harvesting done in the vineyards. The wines were fermented in cement, with no temperature control and skin contact that lasted several months. The malolactic fermentations occurred naturally and the wines were aged in large oak barrels. According to Grasso, his 1989s and 1990s turned out well because the vineyards were old at the time (ranging from 50-70 years of age) and because his vineyard workers were very seasoned (as is the case with agriculture in the US, today most of the work in Piedmont's vineyards is done by migrant workers). When the comprehensive history of Piedmont is finally written, a very special place will need to be reserved for Elio Grasso.

By the time I arrived at Elio Grasso's beautiful winery in November 2009 I had tasted nearly all of Piedmont's benchmark 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Still, nothing could have prepared me for the wines I would encounter. Grasso's 1989 and 1990 Barolos are monumental, epic wines of the very highest level that easily stand side by side with the finest wines produced in both vintages. Massively concentrated and dense, the wines will easily last for another 20 years and quite likely longer. Elio Grasso came to making wine somewhat accidentally after the passing of his father. In fact, he didn't drink wine until his mid-30s! The family originally sold wine in bulk, but when that became too demanding, the estate turned to selling the fruit itself. Elio Grasso's first official vintage was 1979 although he also made a small amount wine in 1978 from fruit he was unable to sell. Curiously, Grasso describes himself as a poor taster of wines, and during this time he was assisted by Pietro Ballario, who had worked at Marchesi di Gresy in Barbaresco. It is quite evident Grasso is much more passionate about working in the vineyards than in the cellar. One of the things that is most remarkable about these wines is that they were made with no modern-day technology whatsoever. There was little or no green harvesting done in the vineyards. The wines were fermented in cement, with no temperature control and skin contact that lasted several months. The malolactic fermentations occurred naturally and the wines were aged in large oak barrels. According to Grasso, his 1989s and 1990s turned out well because the vineyards were old at the time (ranging from 50-70 years of age) and because his vineyard workers were very seasoned (as is the case with agriculture in the US, today most of the work in Piedmont's vineyards is done by migrant workers). When the comprehensive history of Piedmont is finally written, a very special place will need to be reserved for Elio Grasso.