2004 Barolo Cannubi
Italy
Barolo
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2021 vintage)
00
2004
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2021
2028 - 2041
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Chiara Boschis and her niece, Beatrice, presented a beautiful set of 2021 Barolos. Harvest took place in early October. All the fruit was in by October 12. The wines were fermented in rotary tanks with two pumpovers a day and spent 14 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentations were also done in steel. Aging was done in a combination of cask and smaller French oak barrels. Two thousand twenty-one is an extremely strong vintage here. Readers will have a very hard time picking a favorite. I certainly did.
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2020
2025 - 2035
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This set of Barolos from Chiara Boschis shows the strengths and also the limits of the vintage. The Nebbiolo harvest started with Cannubi on September 22. Terlo was picked on September 29, while Mosconi came in on October 2. By comparison, in 2019, all the fruit was picked between October 8 and 15. The 2020s saw 12-14 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation was done in tank. As has been the custom here for a number of years, aging takes place in a combination of casks and smaller French oak barrels, depending on the wine, with a preference for larger oak for sites of finesse, such as Cannubi, and smaller oak for vineyards that are more structured, like Mosconi. In tasting, I find the Cannubi a bit light. The Via Nuova and Mosconi are both deeper, more complete wines, in my view.
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2019
2027 - 2044
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Chiara Boschis made some of the most thrilling wines of the vintage. “For me, 2019 opens a new cycle of growing seasons, all marked by intense heat in the summer,” she told me. The 2019s saw two weeks on the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel. “It is important to me to vinify all the lots the same way so that what comes through is the personality of each site. We do a few pumpovers daily and gently turn the rotary tanks.” The wines were racked into oak between December and January and then raised with no racking. Wines from Barolo and Serralunga are aged in casks, while those from Monforte are raised in smaller French oak casks. In recent years, Chiara Boschis has been at the top. Her 2019s are positively stellar.
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2018
2024 - 2038
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Chiara Boschis turned out a set of beautiful and expressive Barolos in 2018 that in some ways remind me of the 2012s. Boschis shortened fermentations a touch, as many growers did, to about nine days for the Cannubi and Mosconi and about 11 days for the Via Nuova vineyards. Malos were all done in steel. As has been the case here in recent years, the Barolos are aged in a combination of cask and smaller neutral French oak, with a preference for cask for the more delicate wines of Barolo and smaller barrels for the firmer wines of Monforte and Serralunga.
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2017
2025 - 2037
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Chiara Boschis's 2017 Barolos are among the most succesful wines of the vintage. In 2017, the Cannubi and Mosconi are especially fine, but it has gotten very hard to choose here. Boschis was among the growers who credited anti-hail netting as having the added benefit of protecting fruit from intense heat and light. In recent years, Boschis has settled comfortably into a style that takes the best elements of both traditional and more modern approaches. The wines are aged in a combination of cask and smaller neutral French oak, with a preference for cask for the more delicate wines of Barolo and smaller barrels for the firmer wines of Monforte and Serralunga. "Our most significant work in recent years has been changes in pruning to give the fruit a bit more cover from the sun, which is much stronger than in the past," Boschis told me.
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2016
2024 - 2041
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There are the best wines Chiara Boschis and her brother, Giorgio, have ever made. I was just blown away by what I tasted. The purity and class of the 2016 is magnificent. The 2016s were whole berry crushed and spent 7-10 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation took place in steel, after which the wines were racked into oak between December 2016 and January 2017. The Mosconi is aged entirely in cask, the Via Nuova is done half in barrique and half in cask, while the Cannubi is done mostly in cask.
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2015
2023 - 2040
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Chiara Boschis continues to make some of the most compelling wines in Barolo. Her 2015s are all quite pretty. The Cannubi is a bit penalized by the heat of the vintage, while the Via Nuova and Mosconi handled the rigors of the year more successfully. The 2015s were fermented with indigenous yeasts and spent 10-15 days on the skins. The malos were done in steel, after which the wines were barreled down. The Cannubi and Via Nuova were aged in a mix of cask and barrique, while the Mosconi was aged entirely in small French oak barrels, a choice that works well for this cru.
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2014
2017 - 2029
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These are three highly expressive, nuanced Barolos from Chiara Boschis. The Via Nuova is once again the star of the show. Blending fruit from various sites was quite possibly the best way to deal with the conditions of 2014. Boschis gave her 2014s about two weeks on the skins. The malos were done in steel, and the wines were aged in equal parts cask and neutral French oak.
00
2013
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Year in, year out Chiara Boschis quietly makes some of the most compelling wines in Barolo without getting either the attention or recognition of some of her neighbors. The 2013s are brisk and salivating, which is to say very much in the style of the year. I also had a chance to revisit the 2012s, which are just as expressive as they were last year. The Barolos are aged in equal parts French oak baroque and cask. Beginning with the 2015 vintage, the Mosconi is done entirely in barrique, as Boschis believes the smaller barrel size is best suited to the personality of that side. As a reminder, the Via Nuova is a blend of six vineyards; Liste and Terlo (Barolo), two parcels in Mosconi (Monforte) and Gabutti and Baudana (Serralunga)
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2012
2019 - 2032
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Year in, year out Chiara Boschis quietly makes some of the most compelling wines in Barolo without getting either the attention or recognition of some of her neighbors. The 2013s are brisk and salivating, which is to say very much in the style of the year. I also had a chance to revisit the 2012s, which are just as expressive as they were last year. The Barolos are aged in equal parts French oak barrique and cask. Beginning with the 2015 vintage, the Mosconi is done entirely in barrique, as Boschis believes the smaller barrel size is best suited to the personality of that side. As a reminder, the Via Nuova is a blend of six vineyards; Liste and Terlo (Barolo), two parcels in Mosconi (Monforte) and Gabutti and Baudana (Serralunga)
00
2012
2020 - 2037
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This is a stellar set of wines from Chiara Boschis. The Barolo Via Nuova, now a blend of vineyards, is superb, while the Cannubi is one of the finest Barolos being made today from this fabled site. The only wine that is still finding its way is the Mosconi. The 2012s were fermented in rotary tanks and aged in a combination of casks and smaller French oak barrels. Beginning with the 2014, the Mosconi is aged exclusively in French oak barrels, which Boschis believes is better suited to the personality of the site than cask. We will see. Sadly, hail was an issue pretty much everywhere for Boschis, so yields are down about 25% across the board. The 2012s are quite deep for the year, but there is never any bleeding done here.
00
2011
2018 - 2036
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Chiara Boschis's enthusiasm seems to know no bound. Her 2011 Barolos are even better today than they were when I tasted them from tank just prior to bottling. Over the last few vintages in particular, the house style has evolved notably here. Today's wines are much more classic than they were just a few years ago. The Cannubi and Mosconi Barolos are both quite representative of their respective sites, while the Via Nuova, arguably the best wine in the range now, draws from a handful of sites in Barolo, Monforte and Serralunga. The 2011s were aged in equal parts cask and French oak barrels, with about 30% new wood for the portion aged in barrique. Given the explosion in prices for so many top Barolos, I am often asked who are the next set of producers that will reach superstar status. Well, Chiara Boschis is one of them.
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2011
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Pira has undergone one of the most remarkable transformations I have seen in Piedmont. The older Pira Barolos from the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s were among the most rigorously traditional wines in Piedmont. Chiara Boschis purchased the winery and vineyards in 1981 and immediately became one of the leading exponents of the modernist movement. Over the last few years, Boschis has come around almost full-circle, which somehow seems fitting, considering the wines that made this small estate in the heart of Barolo famous in the first place. Today, Chiara Boschis works with her brother Giorgio, who previously ran Borgogno before the family sold the winery. The Barolos see malo in steel and are aged in a combination of botti and smaller French oak barrels. Think of the Cannubi and Mosconi as soloists, while the Via Nuova, which is now made from a blend of six sites, is an orchestra. I tasted all of the 2011 Barolos from tank just prior to bottling.
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2010
2016 - 2030
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These are some of the best wines I have ever tasted from proprietress Chiara Boschis. The 2010s mark a significant stylistic shift from the past. Giorgio Boschis, who used to run Borgogno with his brother Cesare is now working full-time at Pira. The 2010s were aged half in cask and half in French oak barrels, about 30% new. Pira's Barolo Via Nuova is now a super-classic, multi-vineyard Barolo rather than a single-vineyard wine, as I explain in the review of that wine.
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2010
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"The 2009s are the wines you drink," said Chiara Boschis."They have a lot of fruit; they're simple and beautiful, a bit like the 2005s, and they won't age forever."Boschis told me that 2010 is a bit like 2004."The wines have been perfect since the beginning.They combine power with elegance, and everything is in the right place."Beginning with the 2010 vintage, Boschis is using 2,000-liter barrels to age 50% of her Barolo; until 2009, she aged her wines entirely in barriques, 50% new.Her wines stand out for their perfume, which in some vintages can be masked by the new wood influence, so the change in philosophy here should be a positive development.Boschis is now "organic but not biodynamic."
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2009
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"The 2009s are the wines you drink," said Chiara Boschis. "They have a lot of fruit; they're simple and beautiful, a bit like the 2005s, and they won't age forever." Boschis told me that 2010 is a bit like 2004. "The wines have been perfect since the beginning. They combine power with elegance, and everything is in the right place." Beginning with the 2010 vintage, Boschis is using 2,000-liter barrels to age 50% of her Barolo; until 2009, she aged her wines entirely in barriques, 50% new. Her wines stand out for their perfume, which in some vintages can be masked by the new wood influence, so the change in philosophy here should be a positive development. Boschis is now "organic but not biodynamic."
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2009
2014 - 2024
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This small cellar in the center of Barolo is in the midst of a transformation that is remarkable. Proprietress Chiara Boschis has added several new parcels to her holdings beginning with the 2011 vintage. At the same time, she continues to lower the presence of French oak casks in favor of larger casks. Now that Via Nuova is no longer a formally recognized vineyard designation (the new name is Terlo), Boschis has decided to add some of the newer parcels to her holdings in Terlo to make a multi-village Barolo starting in 2011. The 2009s were picked a little earlier than normal, starting on September 29 and finishing on October 7. The wines were bottled unfined and unfiltered, so they may present a slightly cloudy color, but that is nothing to be concerned about.
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2008
2018 - 2028
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Chiara Boschis did a great job with her 2008 Baroli. I was equally impressed with all of the wines I tasted in barrel during my most recent visit.
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2008
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2007
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2007
2017 - 2020
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Chiara Boschis never misses a beat. Her 2007s were beautiful when I tasted them from barrel last year, and they are equally gorgeous now that they are in bottle. Boschis has gradually lowered the percentage of new oak in her wines, which is allowing the fruit to come through with notable elegance and transparency.
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2006
2014 - 2026
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Proprietor Chiara Boschis was in high spirits when I visited in November. Her 2009s were just finishing their malos and already seemed quite promising. In 2009 Boschis vinified fruit from a new parcel she is renting in the Conterni vineyard in Monforte. With her 2009s, Boschis also dropped the percentage of new oak barrels to 50%. It will be interesting to see the direction her wines take. Suffice it to say every Barolo I tasted from vintages 2005-2009 was exceptional. Boschis, one of Piedmont's small, artisan growers, is a producer whose wines merit far more attention than they receive.
00
2006
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2005
2018 - 2030
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Chiara Boschis' 2005s have developed into gorgeous Barolos. The wines are exquisitely perfumed. At the time, the wines were fermented and aged in French oak barrels, with a significant presence of new oak. The Via Nuova was also a true single-vineyard Barolo whereas today it is made from a blend of several sites.
00
2005
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2005
2013 - 2020
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The always energetic Chiara Boschis is among the producers who did quite well in 2005. Boschis gave her 2005 Barolos 70% new oak, down from the 100% that was once the norm, and the wines show greater purity and integrity of fruit. Her vineyards in Cannubi, one of Barolo's warmest sites, were well positioned (literally) to deal with the cooler vintage. In the higher-altitude, fresher Via Nuova, she took yields down a bit lower than normal to give the fruit the best chance to ripen. The proof is in the glass, and these are two exceptionally beautiful 2005 Barolos.
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2004
2016 - 2026
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2004
2013 - 2022
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Chiara Boschis has turned out two gorgeous 2004 Barolos. Boschis favors 100% new oak for her Barolos. Because of the oak treatment, the wines can be hard to understand when young but with bottle age they develop into gorgeous wines.
00
2003
2014 - 2023
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In 2003 Chiara Boschis was faced with sugars that ripened before skins and seeds, but she made the choice to pick early, in September, with less than fully mature tannins that have required quite a bit of bottle age to soften. Today her 2003s are gorgeous. The 2003s were done in 100% new French oak.
00
2003
2013 - 2015
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Chiara Bosch is has once again turned out two very pretty Barolos in 2003. The wines have a fair amount of new oak, but with time, the specific terroirqualities of the sites she works with always come through. These 2003 Barolos are a great example of how a less-well regarded vineyard outperformed one of the region's most h istoric sites in th is freak ishly hot and dry vintage.
00
2001
2013 - 2016
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Chiara Boschis has long made some of the prettiest Baroli in town. Her 2001s have matured nicely. I have a preference for the Via Nuova, a Barolo that generally plays second fiddle to the Cannubi. Not in 2001.
00
2001
2013 - 2019
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Chiara Boschis makes two very elegant Barolos from her holdings in the center of town (I did not taste the 2001 Via Nuova). Although Boschis prefers to age her Barolos in 100% new oak, the wines are always well-balanced. While some of the aromas and flavors are those of the modern school, the wines' medium weight and structure are decidedly classic.
00
2001
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00
2000
2015 - 2030
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2000
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2000
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More than ever before, I was struck by the consistency of quality that Chiara Boschis is achieving with her Barolos. Boschis explained that she is now extracting more color, but she noted that her work in the vines, her lower yields and stricter selection of fruit are more important for wine quality. "To make excellent wine it's necessary to begin with grapes that have everything inside them," is the way she put it. Boschis describes the '99 and '97 vintages as high in polyphenols, with more development of color but less tannins. "They are the more impressive of the recent vintages, wines for effect," she explained. "Vintages '98 and '96, in contrast, are more classic, more tannic and ageworthy, although the '98 is easier to drink in its youth." Boschis had just moved her 2000 Barolo from barriques into tank when I stopped by to taste.
00
1999
2012 - 2019
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When she made her 1999 Barolo Cannubi, Chiara Boschis was firmly entrenched in the modern school. Boschis's wines are much more reigned in today, but at the end of the day, both styles are just different expressions from one of Barolo's most gifted interpreters. Chiara Boschis's Barolos have always been classy and polished.
00
1999
2013 - 2013
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Chiara Boschis makes two very elegant Barolos from her holdings in the center of town. Although Boschis prefers to age her Barolos in 100% new oak, the wines are always well-balanced. While some of the aromas and flavors are those of the modern school, the wines' medium weight and structure are decidedly classic. In 2002 Boschis produced a single Barolo she is calling “Cuvee Chiara,” but I did not get a chance to taste the wine as it had not been bottled at the time of my visit.
00
1999
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More than ever before, I was struck by the consistency of quality that Chiara Boschis is achieving with her Barolos. Boschis explained that she is now extracting more color, but she noted that her work in the vines, her lower yields and stricter selection of fruit are more important for wine quality. "To make excellent wine it's necessary to begin with grapes that have everything inside them," is the way she put it. Boschis describes the '99 and '97 vintages as high in polyphenols, with more development of color but less tannins. "They are the more impressive of the recent vintages, wines for effect," she explained. "Vintages '98 and '96, in contrast, are more classic, more tannic and ageworthy, although the '98 is easier to drink in its youth." Boschis had just moved her 2000 Barolo from barriques into tank when I stopped by to taste.
00
1999
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Chiara Boschis was in the midst of a major cellar expansion in September, and had a volcano of earth emerging in her front yard. We tasted her recent series of Barolos al fresco on her shaded porch. Boschis was one of a few producers who told me that 1998 was the least dense of the recent string of vintages. "Nineteen ninety-seven was a year with great power and fruit presence," she said. "It was the highest of the recent vintages in polyphenols, but this took the form of anthocyanins, or coloring material, more than tannins. Nineteen ninety-six produced classic muscular, powerful Barolos," she added, "while '99 will be between '97 and '96 in style." Boschis produces about 13,000 bottles of Barolo annually from her 2.5 hectares of vines. Since '94, the wines have been aged in all new barriques Boschis pools her annual barrel order with those of Giorgio Rivetti and several other Barbaresco and Barolo producers in order to have the buying clout to get top-quality Taransaud barrels (she also uses barrels from Picard).
00
1998
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More than ever before, I was struck by the consistency of quality that Chiara Boschis is achieving with her Barolos. Boschis explained that she is now extracting more color, but she noted that her work in the vines, her lower yields and stricter selection of fruit are more important for wine quality. "To make excellent wine it's necessary to begin with grapes that have everything inside them," is the way she put it. Boschis describes the '99 and '97 vintages as high in polyphenols, with more development of color but less tannins. "They are the more impressive of the recent vintages, wines for effect," she explained. "Vintages '98 and '96, in contrast, are more classic, more tannic and ageworthy, although the '98 is easier to drink in its youth." Boschis had just moved her 2000 Barolo from barriques into tank when I stopped by to taste.
00
1998
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Chiara Boschis was in the midst of a major cellar expansion in September, and had a volcano of earth emerging in her front yard. We tasted her recent series of Barolos al fresco on her shaded porch. Boschis was one of a few producers who told me that 1998 was the least dense of the recent string of vintages. "Nineteen ninety-seven was a year with great power and fruit presence," she said. "It was the highest of the recent vintages in polyphenols, but this took the form of anthocyanins, or coloring material, more than tannins. Nineteen ninety-six produced classic muscular, powerful Barolos," she added, "while '99 will be between '97 and '96 in style." Boschis produces about 13,000 bottles of Barolo annually from her 2.5 hectares of vines. Since '94, the wines have been aged in all new barriques Boschis pools her annual barrel order with those of Giorgio Rivetti and several other Barbaresco and Barolo producers in order to have the buying clout to get top-quality Taransaud barrels (she also uses barrels from Picard).
00
1997
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Chiara Boschis was in the midst of a major cellar expansion in September, and had a volcano of earth emerging in her front yard. We tasted her recent series of Barolos al fresco on her shaded porch. Boschis was one of a few producers who told me that 1998 was the least dense of the recent string of vintages. "Nineteen ninety-seven was a year with great power and fruit presence," she said. "It was the highest of the recent vintages in polyphenols, but this took the form of anthocyanins, or coloring material, more than tannins. Nineteen ninety-six produced classic muscular, powerful Barolos," she added, "while '99 will be between '97 and '96 in style." Boschis produces about 13,000 bottles of Barolo annually from her 2.5 hectares of vines. Since '94, the wines have been aged in all new barriques Boschis pools her annual barrel order with those of Giorgio Rivetti and several other Barbaresco and Barolo producers in order to have the buying clout to get top-quality Taransaud barrels (she also uses barrels from Picard).
00
1996
2016 - 2021
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Chiara Boschis was in the midst of a major cellar expansion in September, and had a volcano of earth emerging in her front yard. We tasted her recent series of Barolos al fresco on her shaded porch. Boschis was one of a few producers who told me that 1998 was the least dense of the recent string of vintages. "Nineteen ninety-seven was a year with great power and fruit presence," she said. "It was the highest of the recent vintages in polyphenols, but this took the form of anthocyanins, or coloring material, more than tannins. Nineteen ninety-six produced classic muscular, powerful Barolos," she added, "while '99 will be between '97 and '96 in style." Boschis produces about 13,000 bottles of Barolo annually from her 2.5 hectares of vines. Since '94, the wines have been aged in all new barriques Boschis pools her annual barrel order with those of Giorgio Rivetti and several other Barbaresco and Barolo producers in order to have the buying clout to get top-quality Taransaud barrels (she also uses barrels from Picard).
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