2009 Pinot Noir Finn
United States
Russian River Valley
Sonoma
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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Winemaker Andy Smith, who has been with DuMol for 15 years now, told me that the 2009 harvest was uncommonly protracted, extending over 45 days for all of the varieties that they use. He described '09 as "a great pinot vintage because the wines have serious depth and also balance; they're definitely built to age." He called it "a relaxed vintage in the vineyard, with a cool summer, so there was ideal fruit." Smith added that one of the keys to the success of the '09 pinots was the fact that the grapes were all ripe but not uniformly so. "If all the berries are exactly the same, then you get one note instead of many of them."
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This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate's earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today's approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.
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