2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard

Andy Smith has turned out a striking set of wines at DuMol. Over the last few years, Smith seems to have settled into a more relaxed, comfortable style at DuMol that is helped by not having to divide his attention between DuMol and Larkmead, as he once did. Smith is picking a bit earlier and going for more freshness and energy in his wines. The results are truly spectacular. There are many, many highlights in this range. Readers should not miss the 2014 Cabernets, both of which have really blossomed since I tasted them from barrel last year. The Cabernet program grows to five wines in 2015, so there is plenty to look forward to, including new wines from Meteor (that fruit went into the Napa Valley bottling in 2014), Ballard and Tench.

This is a strong set of new releases from DuMOL. Winemaker Andy Smith has really dialed in his approach here over the last few years, and it shows. Harvest dates have been moved up, while in general Smith is seeking a bit more freshness in his wines than was the case a few years ago. That is especially true of the Chardonnays, which now also spend eleven months in barrel followed by six months in tank, a fairly classic aging regime today in Burgundy that is less common in California. Smith has also introduced two new Cabernets, with more to follow. As readers probably know, Smith made the wines at Larkmead for years, so Cabernet is intimately familiar. The first wines are quite impressive.