2019 Chardonnay Chloe Ritchie Vineyard

My tastings at DuMOL are usually pretty epic, as I sample two vintages of pretty much the entire range. The pandemic made a visit this year impossible, so this report focuses on the bottled 2018s. The wines are brilliant across the board, just as they were from barrel. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2018 as a year with moderate temperatures, especially at harvest time, which allowed for picking tiny sections of vineyards in small, separate passes. From top to bottom, this is an impressive lineup.

Over the years, I have learned to allow for plenty of time for my tastings at DuMol. I was super-impressed with the wines I tasted on my last visit. Andy Smith continues to grow the range thoughtfully. The Chardonnays and Pinots remain the strong suits, mostly because they form the core of the range and have really been fine tuned over time. The 2017 Chardonnays have turned out just as well as I had hoped they would. The wines are rich, deep and full of character. Today, I favor the 2017s over the 2018s, which come across as lighter. Then again, the Chardonnays see pretty long élevage (by California standards) of 11 months in oak and 6 months in steel (for the vineyard designates) so there is plenty of time for the 2018s to perhaps gain a bit more dimension. The two vintages appear closer in quality for Pinot Noir. Smith opted to handle the 2018s very gently in the cellar, and did half the number of punchdowns than the norm. Both the 2017s and 2018s are vivid and super-expressive. I favor 2018 over 2017 for the Cabernets and Syrahs, as the longer and more benign growing season was clearly more favorable for both varieties.

Over the years, I have learned to allow for plenty of time for my tastings at DuMol. I was super-impressed with the wines I tasted on my last visit. Andy Smith continues to grow the range thoughtfully. The Chardonnays and Pinots remain the strong suits, mostly because they form the core of the range and have really been fine tuned over time. The 2017 Chardonnays have turned out just as well as I had hoped they would. The wines are rich, deep and full of character. Today, I favor the 2017s over the 2018s, which come across as lighter. Then again, the Chardonnays see pretty long élevage (by California standards) of 11 months in oak and 6 months in steel (for the vineyard designates) so there is plenty of time for the 2018s to perhaps gain a bit more dimension. The two vintages appear closer in quality for Pinot Noir. Smith opted to handle the 2018s very gently in the cellar, and did half the number of punchdowns than the norm. Both the 2017s and 2018s are vivid and super-expressive. I favor 2018 over 2017 for the Cabernets and Syrahs, as the longer and more benign growing season was clearly more favorable for both varieties.

Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.

Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.

My tasting at Du Mol was one the highlights of my January trip to Sonoma. Andy Smith describes 2016 as a classic California vintage with lower acidities than the 2015, which I suspect is more a reflection of the timing of picking decisions rather than a reflection of the vintages themselves. Regardless, 2016 and 2015 are two fabulous back to back vintages at Du Mol. This range is seriously impressive. The 2016 Chardonnays were all in tank when I tasted them, while the 2016 Pinots and Cabernets were still in oak.

I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at DuMol this year. Winemaker Andy Smith is no longer at Larkmead and is now solely focused on DuMol, which can only be a good thing for these wines. Many of the 2012s, the Pinots in particular, were even better from bottle than they were from barrel last year. The 2012 Pinots spent more time in barrel than normal, and for the most part benefited from the longer elevage. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2013 Pinots as they were bottled earlier than normal, just before my visit. DuMol and Andy Smith fans can look forward to two Cabernets starting with the 2014 vintage; the first is from the Montecillo vineyard in Sonoma, while the second is likely to be a blend from two top Napa Valley sites. DuMol occupies a pretty solid position in the middle of the stylistic spectrum, which is one of the reasons they are so delicious. In my view, these wines have never been better.

I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at DuMol this year. Winemaker Andy Smith is no longer at Larkmead and is now solely focused on DuMol, which can only be a good thing for these wines. Many of the 2012s, the Pinots in particular, were even better from bottle than they were from barrel last year. The 2012 Pinots spent more time in barrel than normal, and for the most part benefited from the longer elevage. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2013 Pinots as they were bottled earlier than normal, just before my visit. DuMol and Andy Smith fans can look forward to two Cabernets starting with the 2014 vintage; the first is from the Montecillo vineyard in Sonoma, while the second is likely to be a blend from two top Napa Valley sites. DuMol occupies a pretty solid position in the middle of the stylistic spectrum, which is one of the reasons they are so delicious. In my view, these wines have never been better.

This is a fabulous set of wines from DuMol and winemaker Andy Smith. Stylistically, the wines capture a middle ground built on balance above all else. The wines are rich and layered but never heavy. I am sure I am not the only person who was surprised to see Smith leave his other longstanding gig over at Larkmead in Calistoga at the end of last year. I imagine that DuMol owners Kerry Murphy and Michael Verlander are probably delighted to have more of Smith's time. It's probably a pretty safe bet DuMol will be getting into the Cabernet Sauvignon business in the near future.
Andy Smith describes 2011 as a year with lower maturities than normal and also naturally lower yields, while 2012 was an abundant crop with larger berries and far greater production. In 2012 the malos were quite slow, which is reflected in a number of wines that come across as a bit less fully formed than they usually do at this stage, the Chardonnays in particular. In 2011, both the Eoin and Connor Pinots were picked after the rains and were ultimately bulked out, as the fruit wasn't high enough to merit vineyard designate bottlings. Smith also used a very small amount of whole clusters in 2011. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over 2012s, as the naturally low yields of the year and the cool growing season have produced a set of deeply expressive, dynamic wines long on energy. Don't get me wrong the 2012 Chardonnays are beautiful. It's just that the 2011s have a little more complexity. It's a high-class problem to choose between these vintages. On average, the 2012 Pinots are a notch above the 2011s, as they have more fruit and resonance, along with better balance, much of that coming from a much more favorable growing season. In Syrah, which ripens later than both Chardonnay and Pinot, 2012 is a decidedly better and more even vintage than the rain-plagued 2011. All of the 2012s Chardonnays and Pinots I tasted were in tank, while the unbottled Syrahs were all in barrel.

"We picked when we wanted to, mostly in the second half of September," said Andy Smith about the 2011 harvest in Sonoma County."We harvested everything except the Charles Heintz chardonnay before the first rain on October 3."Even if he doesn't consider 2011 to be at the level of 2010 here, Smith believes that the 2011 chardonnays are balanced from the start, showing "intensity and energy more than weight."The pinots may be less dense than normal, owing to the reduced number of sunshine hours during the growing season, added Smith, "but they don't lack for structure."(He indicated some concern about the 2012 pinots because of the high crop levels.)Syrah was the most challenging variety here in 2011 and a lot of fruit was declassified as a result of underripeness or problems with the grape skins."The year was not good for vinifying with whole clusters due to botrytis," noted Smith.

This is a fabulous set of wines from DuMol and winemaker Andy Smith. Stylistically, the wines capture a middle ground built on balance above all else. The wines are rich and layered but never heavy. I am sure I am not the only person who was surprised to see Smith leave his other longstanding gig over at Larkmead in Calistoga at the end of last year. I imagine that DuMol owners Kerry Murphy and Michael Verlander are probably delighted to have more of Smith's time. It's probably a pretty safe bet DuMol will be getting into the Cabernet Sauvignon business in the near future.
Andy Smith describes 2011 as a year with lower maturities than normal and also naturally lower yields, while 2012 was an abundant crop with larger berries and far greater production. In 2012 the malos were quite slow, which is reflected in a number of wines that come across as a bit less fully formed than they usually do at this stage, the Chardonnays in particular. In 2011, both the Eoin and Connor Pinots were picked after the rains and were ultimately bulked out, as the fruit wasn't high enough to merit vineyard designate bottlings. Smith also used a very small amount of whole clusters in 2011. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over 2012s, as the naturally low yields of the year and the cool growing season have produced a set of deeply expressive, dynamic wines long on energy. Don't get me wrong the 2012 Chardonnays are beautiful. It's just that the 2011s have a little more complexity. It's a high-class problem to choose between these vintages. On average, the 2012 Pinots are a notch above the 2011s, as they have more fruit and resonance, along with better balance, much of that coming from a much more favorable growing season. In Syrah, which ripens later than both Chardonnay and Pinot, 2012 is a decidedly better and more even vintage than the rain-plagued 2011. All of the 2012s Chardonnays and Pinots I tasted were in tank, while the unbottled Syrahs were all in barrel.

Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a ‘sweet, forward vintage,' while 2011 is more ‘dynamic and commercial.' Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300 liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentation are partly blocked, which results in wines that are both texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve. The single-vineyard Pinots spend 14-15 months in barrel on their fine lees, while the Syrahs get a few more months in oak. At their best, the Pinots and Syrahs are compelling.

Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a ‘sweet, forward vintage,' while 2011 is more ‘dynamic and commercial.' Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300 liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentation are partly blocked, which results in wines that are both texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve. The single-vineyard Pinots spend 14-15 months in barrel on their fine lees, while the Syrahs get a few more months in oak. At their best, the Pinots and Syrahs are compelling.

According to Andy Smith, "2010 was a vintage that succeeded because of the wines' balance, acidity and elegance.On top of that they have power."The cool, grey summer allowed for "gentle ripening" and flavor buildup with no danger of sunburn or runaway sugars, he said, adding that in many cases the wines "have a rare combination of brooding and bright."The even-keeled Smith, who is disinclined to hyperbole, said that thinks that his 2010s "are the best set of wines we've ever made, no question" and that they will reward patience, "even if they're quite complex right now."

Winemaker Andy Smith, who has been with DuMol for 15 years now, told me that the 2009 harvest was uncommonly protracted, extending over 45 days for all of the varieties that they use. He described '09 as "a great pinot vintage because the wines have serious depth and also balance; they're definitely built to age." He called it "a relaxed vintage in the vineyard, with a cool summer, so there was ideal fruit." Smith added that one of the keys to the success of the '09 pinots was the fact that the grapes were all ripe but not uniformly so. "If all the berries are exactly the same, then you get one note instead of many of them."

This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate's earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today's approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.

"We harvested early in 2008," Andy Smith told me, "with healthy acidity and before any problems with heat spikes from an Indian summer." Smith said that he's wary of battonage with chardonnay because "if the fruit was healthy and ripe then there should be plenty of richness in there already. Better to let it work itself out; that's what all the vineyard work of the year was for." He said that he would far rather err on the side of picking pinot a little too early than a little too late: "I'd much prefer to make an herbal wine than a raisined one," he explained.

Winemaker Andy Smith told me that 2007 was a great year for chardonnay. "We got budbreak in early March and were able to harvest much of the fruit in early October," he reported. "So there's great complexity thanks to the extended season. These are very rich wines, at least as powerful as the 2004s but with better acidity so they're built for aging." He said that while the '07 pinots have "extremely ample fruit, the finishes are strict and very long; they're made for cellaring, not for drinking young." The 2007 vintage marks the first release of DuMol's estate pinot noir, by the way.

The key to making successful wines in the long, fairly cool 2006 growing season, said winemaker Andy Smith, was "lots of cluster thinning, or else the crop would run away from you." Smith described this as "pacing the vintage, like you would with a horse. You want a steady gallop, not erratic surges." He also noted that 2006 presented a huge challenge because of botrytis issues, meaning that "a brutal selection process" was required. Smith chooses not to stir the lees of his chardonnays "because my goal is to preserve tension in the wines, and batonnage opens them up more than I want." Says Smith about the set of 2006s he presented: "The chardonnays are unsurprisingly rich, but the pinots have surprised us with their elegance, which is a result of elevated yields. They aren't light, though."

"Here we don't need to worry about getting texture; our concern should be with getting structure," said winemaker Andy Smith, who added that the North Coast produces too many one-dimensional chardonnays and pinots because "with Dijon clones you really need to have a blend, or you're likely to just get simple fruit." When I remarked that I didn't find his wines exactly fruity he responded, "that's a very good thing," adding that it's important to harvest the grapes before they get too ripe: "Hang time is vastly overrated out here; we get plenty of ripeness without even trying." Smith believes that 2005 is a great vintage for vibrant wines. "We could tell early on that the chardonnays were going to have both brightness and structure, but the pinots took a while to show their vivacity."

We're into blending rather than making vineyard-designated wines," explains DuMol co-owner Kerry Murphy. DuMol has extensive control over farming practices at the vineyards it buys from, and some of its contracts specify payment by the acre, giving DuMol the flexibility to have crop levels reduced to ensure better ripeness and concentration of fruit. Andy Smith, who also makes the Gemstone red blend, is winemaker here. He told me that the style has changed somewhat since '98 and '99, "when we were making wines in a fruit-bomb style." For starters, he has reduced fermentation temperatures to extend the fermentations. He keeps a relatively high percentage of solids with the young wines but does only limited lees stirring. The blends are normally made in June or July; the wines then go back into barrel, with all the lees kept for the chardonnay and a substantial amount for the pinot. Smith uses the wines' last months in barrel "to lose the fermentation character of the fruit."