1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes the 2001 vintage as "sympathique." The late harvest, and the significant variation of temperature between days and nights in September, yielded what Borie called "an original fruit expression." When I asked for elaboration, he replied: "It's a cool wine: classic, elegant and long, more intellectual in style, in contrast to a hot one, which would be more massive, exotic, exuberant." The grapes in 2001 were healthy, he added, and they had plenty of natural sugar. I was not able to retaste the 2000 Ducru or Grand Puy Lacoste, as the wines were being fined.
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With the ripe cabernet skins of 2000, extraction during vinification was easy, said Francois-Xavier Borie. I found the young 2000 Ducru less dense and distinctly inscrutable alongside Borie Grand Puy Lacoste, but ultimately subtler and longer. Borie, too, favors Ducru, but admitted that in some years ('79, '86 and '90), he prefers GPL.
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes his '99 as fatter than the '98, with more enrobed tannins. In years when the pepins (grape seeds) are not completely ripe, Ducru lightens up considerably on its pump-overs during vinification, and the '99 Ducru is thus a wine that privileges fruit and finesse. Borie was considering lowering the price for the '99, though he admitted that reducing prices is psychologically difficult for most Medoc proprietors. Ducru now has a bright new air-conditioned barrel cellar designed for maximum air circulation. I was not able to retaste the '98 Ducru, as it was on its finings.
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