1998 Ducru-Beaucaillou
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot
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2021 - 2040
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2018 - 2034
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With the ripe cabernet skins of 2000, extraction during vinification was easy, said Francois-Xavier Borie. I found the young 2000 Ducru less dense and distinctly inscrutable alongside Borie Grand Puy Lacoste, but ultimately subtler and longer. Borie, too, favors Ducru, but admitted that in some years ('79, '86 and '90), he prefers GPL.
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Grape sugars were higher than those of '97, and vinification of Ducru, as well as Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley, featured a bit more maceration than the previous year. The estate used vacuum evaporation to remove the excess water brought by swollen grapes. The wines here still do not go into barrel until after the malolactic fermentations. Francois-Xavier Borie believes that wines made in this manner are more flattering at the outset, but he not convinced that there's much of a difference six months later. The '98 Ducru struck me as yet another Medoc wine with lovely purity of aromatics that may or may not possess enough stuffing to merit an outstanding rating.
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