1997 Ducru-Beaucaillou
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes his '99 as fatter than the '98, with more enrobed tannins. In years when the pepins (grape seeds) are not completely ripe, Ducru lightens up considerably on its pump-overs during vinification, and the '99 Ducru is thus a wine that privileges fruit and finesse. Borie was considering lowering the price for the '99, though he admitted that reducing prices is psychologically difficult for most Medoc proprietors. Ducru now has a bright new air-conditioned barrel cellar designed for maximum air circulation. I was not able to retaste the '98 Ducru, as it was on its finings.
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Grape sugars were higher than those of '97, and vinification of Ducru, as well as Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley, featured a bit more maceration than the previous year. The estate used vacuum evaporation to remove the excess water brought by swollen grapes. The wines here still do not go into barrel until after the malolactic fermentations. Francois-Xavier Borie believes that wines made in this manner are more flattering at the outset, but he not convinced that there's much of a difference six months later. The '98 Ducru struck me as yet another Medoc wine with lovely purity of aromatics that may or may not possess enough stuffing to merit an outstanding rating.
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If you just look for high alcohol, deep color and tannins, 1997 can be difficult to taste, notes Francois-Xavier Borie. But then grape sugars here, at 11.5%, were actually slightly higher than those of 1996. "We picked the fruit ripe but not overripe," adds Borie. "If we had waited longer we would have lost color and concentration." I was not able to retaste the '96s here, which were sur colle, but the finished '95 Ducru-Beaucaillou and Grand Puy Lacoste have turned out splendidly.
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