2009 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
63% Merlot, Petit Verdot (2024 vintage)
00
2009
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2024
2029 - 2049
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Tracey Dobbin, MW, walked me through the three wines from the estate. Readers should note that they did not produce any Le Petit Ducru in 2024.
“Two thousand twenty-four really showed the quality of the vineyards, especially the well-drained sites,” she explained. “In this vintage, we actually produced more Grand Vin. There were more mildew challenges the further you were from the estuary. In sites without drainage, we saw disease and dilution. The Merlots were more impacted. We employed 100 pickers instead of the usual 40 to 50 for eight weeks. including weekends. We reduced the potential yield after the véraison, cleaning up the vineyard to improve sanitation. Since 2018 and 2021, we are more fine-tuned in terms of nitrogen. We used a lot more grass cover between vines, which helped, especially on less-drained soils. This aided in terms of concentration and fruit ripening. The last big rainfall was on July 28, and there was a bit of hydric stress with two mini-heatwaves in early August and cooler nights, so we have phenolic ripeness. The seeds were riper and more lignified than in 2021, and there was a slower accumulation of sugar.”
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2024
2026 - 2034
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2023
2025 - 2035
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2023
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Bruno Borie was not there during my visit to Ducru-Beaucaillou, so Tracey Dobbin MW guided me through their wines. “There was abundant flowering,” she explained. “We had 10 to 12 buds to reduce but still produced 41hL/ha. The weather was tropical and punctuated with storms, so we had to remove a lot of unhealthy fruit to end up with 6 to 8 bunches per vine before véraison. We removed around half the canopy. We had a lot of teams that were proactively combatting mildew and planting grasses to cope with humidity. There was a late-season heat wave from August 16 to September 10, unprecedented at that point of the year. We had teams out in the vineyard tasting each day. We picked earlier than anticipated, starting September 8, with the Merlots harvested very quickly. The September rain unblocked some of the Cabernets. We had very plush and rounded Merlots instead of more Cabernet-like Merlots, the Cabernets floral, linear and layered. They had very different personalities. We did a little bleeding on some of the Cabernets.”
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2022
2030 - 2058
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2022
2027 - 2037
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2022
2025 - 2042
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2022
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2021
2026 - 2046
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2021
2029 - 2041
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2021
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Bruno Borie and his team turned out a set of stunning 2021s. It was a year with uneven ripening. Coulure (shatter) was especially problematic for the Merlot. Harvest took place between September 23 and October 11. Yields were a 27-30 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the more typical 35-40. Even so, alcohols are in the 13% range, a full percent lower than what has become the norm here in recent years.
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2021
2026 - 2046
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“The 2021 vintage was ‘The Crunch’ – the big fight in rugby,” proprietor Bruno Borie told me. “We had to fight the two waves of frost over two weekends. It’s always on the weekend. It was the same in 2022. We used candles and large portable fans, though the vines next to the estuary were relatively unaffected. I recall my father in the 1960s waking up early in the morning for frost, and it was always the same areas affected. They were not typical spring frosts, more like freezing waves without a huge variation in temperature, so the candles and fans were not quite so effective since there is less mixing of temperatures. But you have friction with the air molecules that heats the air. Then, we had a lot of rain in June and so we had a serious attack of mildew. Teamwork was very important. We sent people into the vineyard to take off leaves and clusters affected. We brought in 50 additional workers from Andalusia. We started picking on 23 September until 11 October. This year will not be a Merlot vintage as they were more affected by frost and mildew. We sold around 30% to the bulk market. The conical vats allowed us to extract soft tannins, slower and more during the aqueous/earlier phase of the alcoholic fermentation. We have about 12.5% alcohol for the Grand Vin, which is reminiscent of the 1996.”
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2020
2025 - 2045
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2019
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2019
2025 - 2039
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2019
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2018
2025 - 2038
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2018
2024 - 2045
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2018
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“We had 30 days above 30°C (86°F) and 5 days above 35°C (95°F)” explained proprietor Bruno Borie at Ducru-Beaucaillou. “Interestingly, climate change seems to have an impact in the ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, especially in the quality of the tannins, but does not seem to affect the length of the growing cycle,” he elaborated. “These are without question the ripest Cabernets we have ever harvested. The seeds were ripe before the skins. We have never seen berries this small. Because of the low juice to skin ratios, we opted for the gentlest extractions possible.”
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2017
2020 - 2032
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2017
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2017
2021 - 2035
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Bruno Borie was at Ducru Beaucaillou to show me through his small portfolio that includes both Saint-Juliens and his properties in Listrac. “We have worked on the concentration so there was a severe sorting and bleeding within reason in order to maintain balance and harmony,” he explained. Like Léoville Las-Cases, its vines virtually “hug” the banks of the Gironde that afforded it protection for the April frosts, although Bruno’s Listrac properties further inland were more impacted. It is an extremely capable Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked just three days later than the Léoville Las-Cases. For me, this was one of the most backward and structured Saint-Julien wines that will require several years in bottle to fully subsume the 100% new oak, but if you are seeking a Saint-Julien with density and substance then this is where I would come. The deuxième vin, La Croix de Beaucaillou is also impressive equal to some of its fellow Grand Vins.
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2017
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2015
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2015
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2014
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2014
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Bruno Borie and the team led by long-time cellar master René Lussau, have produced a magnificent set of 2014s. These are among the wines of the vintage. The 2014s are rich, deep and ample, with striking textures and exceptional overall balance. The combination of early bud break and late harvest led to a vegetative cycle of 120 days, which is quite long. Harvest took place between September 25 and October 15, with yields around 32 hectoliters per hectare. Blends were finalized during the early part of this year. But that is all data. And wine at this level is not about numbers, but rather emotion. There is plenty of that here.
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2013
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2013
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In discussing 2013, Bruno Borie draws comparisons with 1966 and 1971, neither of which I was around to taste as young wines. Yields are down about 35% across all three St. Julien properties. Borie used optical sorting for this top two wines, the Croix de Beaucaillou and Ducru. Temperatures were kept low during fermentation, with minimal pumpovers, just enough to aerate the wines, while post-fermentation macerations were shorter than normal, all pretty typical responses to the year. As for the wines, well, they are terrific, Ducru in particular. Both Croix de Beaucaillou and Ducru are aging in 100% new oak barrels, all of which they have handled quite well thus far.
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2010
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2010
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2008
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