1997 Ducru-Beaucaillou
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (2024 vintage)
00
1997
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes his '99 as fatter than the '98, with more enrobed tannins. In years when the pepins (grape seeds) are not completely ripe, Ducru lightens up considerably on its pump-overs during vinification, and the '99 Ducru is thus a wine that privileges fruit and finesse. Borie was considering lowering the price for the '99, though he admitted that reducing prices is psychologically difficult for most Medoc proprietors. Ducru now has a bright new air-conditioned barrel cellar designed for maximum air circulation. I was not able to retaste the '98 Ducru, as it was on its finings.
00
2024
2030 - 2055
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Tracey Dobbin, MW, walked me through the three wines from the estate. Readers should note that they did not produce any Le Petit Ducru in 2024.
“Two thousand twenty-four really showed the quality of the vineyards, especially the well-drained sites,” she explained. “In this vintage, we actually produced more Grand Vin. There were more mildew challenges the further you were from the estuary. In sites without drainage, we saw disease and dilution. The Merlots were more impacted. We employed 100 pickers instead of the usual 40 to 50 for eight weeks. including weekends. We reduced the potential yield after the véraison, cleaning up the vineyard to improve sanitation. Since 2018 and 2021, we are more fine-tuned in terms of nitrogen. We used a lot more grass cover between vines, which helped, especially on less-drained soils. This aided in terms of concentration and fruit ripening. The last big rainfall was on July 28, and there was a bit of hydric stress with two mini-heatwaves in early August and cooler nights, so we have phenolic ripeness. The seeds were riper and more lignified than in 2021, and there was a slower accumulation of sugar.”
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2024
2034 - 2054
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2023
2033 - 2063
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2023
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Bruno Borie was not there during my visit to Ducru-Beaucaillou, so Tracey Dobbin MW guided me through their wines. “There was abundant flowering,” she explained. “We had 10 to 12 buds to reduce but still produced 41hL/ha. The weather was tropical and punctuated with storms, so we had to remove a lot of unhealthy fruit to end up with 6 to 8 bunches per vine before véraison. We removed around half the canopy. We had a lot of teams that were proactively combatting mildew and planting grasses to cope with humidity. There was a late-season heat wave from August 16 to September 10, unprecedented at that point of the year. We had teams out in the vineyard tasting each day. We picked earlier than anticipated, starting September 8, with the Merlots harvested very quickly. The September rain unblocked some of the Cabernets. We had very plush and rounded Merlots instead of more Cabernet-like Merlots, the Cabernets floral, linear and layered. They had very different personalities. We did a little bleeding on some of the Cabernets.”
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2022
2040 - 2075
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2022
2030 - 2062
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2022
2032 - 2052
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2022
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2021
2028 - 2050
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2021
2031 - 2061
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2021
2031 - 2061
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Bruno Borie and his team turned out a set of stunning 2021s. It was a year with uneven ripening. Coulure (shatter) was especially problematic for the Merlot. Harvest took place between September 23 and October 11. Yields were a 27-30 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the more typical 35-40. Even so, alcohols are in the 13% range, a full percent lower than what has become the norm here in recent years.
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2021
2028 - 2050
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“The 2021 vintage was ‘The Crunch’ – the big fight in rugby,” proprietor Bruno Borie told me. “We had to fight the two waves of frost over two weekends. It’s always on the weekend. It was the same in 2022. We used candles and large portable fans, though the vines next to the estuary were relatively unaffected. I recall my father in the 1960s waking up early in the morning for frost, and it was always the same areas affected. They were not typical spring frosts, more like freezing waves without a huge variation in temperature, so the candles and fans were not quite so effective since there is less mixing of temperatures. But you have friction with the air molecules that heats the air. Then, we had a lot of rain in June and so we had a serious attack of mildew. Teamwork was very important. We sent people into the vineyard to take off leaves and clusters affected. We brought in 50 additional workers from Andalusia. We started picking on 23 September until 11 October. This year will not be a Merlot vintage as they were more affected by frost and mildew. We sold around 30% to the bulk market. The conical vats allowed us to extract soft tannins, slower and more during the aqueous/earlier phase of the alcoholic fermentation. We have about 12.5% alcohol for the Grand Vin, which is reminiscent of the 1996.”
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2020
2031 - 2065
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2019
2026 - 2060
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2019
2030 - 2070
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2019
2029 - 2059
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2019
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2018
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2018
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2018
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“We had 30 days above 30°C (86°F) and 5 days above 35°C (95°F)” explained proprietor Bruno Borie at Ducru-Beaucaillou. “Interestingly, climate change seems to have an impact in the ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, especially in the quality of the tannins, but does not seem to affect the length of the growing cycle,” he elaborated. “These are without question the ripest Cabernets we have ever harvested. The seeds were ripe before the skins. We have never seen berries this small. Because of the low juice to skin ratios, we opted for the gentlest extractions possible.”
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2017
2027 - 2050
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2017
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2017
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2017
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2017
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Bruno Borie was at Ducru Beaucaillou to show me through his small portfolio that includes both Saint-Juliens and his properties in Listrac. “We have worked on the concentration so there was a severe sorting and bleeding within reason in order to maintain balance and harmony,” he explained. Like Léoville Las-Cases, its vines virtually “hug” the banks of the Gironde that afforded it protection for the April frosts, although Bruno’s Listrac properties further inland were more impacted. It is an extremely capable Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked just three days later than the Léoville Las-Cases. For me, this was one of the most backward and structured Saint-Julien wines that will require several years in bottle to fully subsume the 100% new oak, but if you are seeking a Saint-Julien with density and substance then this is where I would come. The deuxième vin, La Croix de Beaucaillou is also impressive equal to some of its fellow Grand Vins.
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2015
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2015
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2014
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2014
2027 - 2050
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2014
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2014
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Bruno Borie and the team led by long-time cellar master René Lussau, have produced a magnificent set of 2014s. These are among the wines of the vintage. The 2014s are rich, deep and ample, with striking textures and exceptional overall balance. The combination of early bud break and late harvest led to a vegetative cycle of 120 days, which is quite long. Harvest took place between September 25 and October 15, with yields around 32 hectoliters per hectare. Blends were finalized during the early part of this year. But that is all data. And wine at this level is not about numbers, but rather emotion. There is plenty of that here.
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2013
2021 - 2030
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2013
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2013
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In discussing 2013, Bruno Borie draws comparisons with 1966 and 1971, neither of which I was around to taste as young wines. Yields are down about 35% across all three St. Julien properties. Borie used optical sorting for this top two wines, the Croix de Beaucaillou and Ducru. Temperatures were kept low during fermentation, with minimal pumpovers, just enough to aerate the wines, while post-fermentation macerations were shorter than normal, all pretty typical responses to the year. As for the wines, well, they are terrific, Ducru in particular. Both Croix de Beaucaillou and Ducru are aging in 100% new oak barrels, all of which they have handled quite well thus far.
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2012
2022 - 2045
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2012
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2012
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2010
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2010
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2007
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2007
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"The biggest challenge in 2007 was the wide range of ripeness," said Bruno Borie, explaining that the flowering was dragged out for a month, whereas it's usually finished in 11 to 15 days. "It was necessary to do a big green harvest in August. We hired 75 people and had them go from plot to plot, cutting off all the pink berries and clusters-about 20% to 25% of the fruit. Then in mid-August we pulled off all the leaves in front of the clusters, keeping only the leaves at the top, because we had such a deficit of heat and light. Normally this step would give tough, unstable tannins, like we had in 2003; so we were lucky not to get burned grapes in 2007. In the end the grapes were perfectly ripe. You know, we are lucky to be in a position where we can afford to do things like this in our vines."
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2006
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"The biggest challenge in 2007 was the wide range of ripeness," said Bruno Borie, explaining that the flowering was dragged out for a month, whereas it's usually finished in 11 to 15 days. "It was necessary to do a big green harvest in August. We hired 75 people and had them go from plot to plot, cutting off all the pink berries and clusters-about 20% to 25% of the fruit. Then in mid-August we pulled off all the leaves in front of the clusters, keeping only the leaves at the top, because we had such a deficit of heat and light. Normally this step would give tough, unstable tannins, like we had in 2003; so we were lucky not to get burned grapes in 2007. In the end the grapes were perfectly ripe. You know, we are lucky to be in a position where we can afford to do things like this in our vines."
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2006
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Bruno Borie emphasized that La Croix de Beaucaillou is Ducru's second wine and that Lalande-Borie is from another property entirely: 25 hectares of vines to the west of Ducru, near Talbot and Lagrange. Ducru comes mostly from gravelly soil around the chateau, "an estuary microclimate," while La Croix de Beaucaillou, which normally includes a higher percentage of merlot than Ducru, comes from another 35 hectares of vines across the road toward Langoa- and Leoville-Barton, where the soil is similar but the climate different. Since taking over here in 2003, Borie has updated and modernized this wine through a host of small improvements in the vines and in the winery, perhaps the most important of which has been more precise harvesting and stricter selection. The work in the vineyard was especially critical in 2006, with all possible steps taken to ensure ripe, clean grapes at the time of harvest. As Borie put it, "the sorting table is the last step before you hang yourself." The aristocratic 2006 has an IPT of 80 and alcohol of 13.2%.
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2005
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"The biggest challenge in 2007 was the wide range of ripeness," said Bruno Borie, explaining that the flowering was dragged out for a month, whereas it's usually finished in 11 to 15 days. "It was necessary to do a big green harvest in August. We hired 75 people and had them go from plot to plot, cutting off all the pink berries and clusters-about 20% to 25% of the fruit. Then in mid-August we pulled off all the leaves in front of the clusters, keeping only the leaves at the top, because we had such a deficit of heat and light. Normally this step would give tough, unstable tannins, like we had in 2003; so we were lucky not to get burned grapes in 2007. In the end the grapes were perfectly ripe. You know, we are lucky to be in a position where we can afford to do things like this in our vines."
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2005
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Bruno Borie emphasized that La Croix de Beaucaillou is Ducru's second wine and that Lalande-Borie is from another property entirely: 25 hectares of vines to the west of Ducru, near Talbot and Lagrange. Ducru comes mostly from gravelly soil around the chateau, "an estuary microclimate," while La Croix de Beaucaillou, which normally includes a higher percentage of merlot than Ducru, comes from another 35 hectares of vines across the road toward Langoa- and Leoville-Barton, where the soil is similar but the climate different. Since taking over here in 2003, Borie has updated and modernized this wine through a host of small improvements in the vines and in the winery, perhaps the most important of which has been more precise harvesting and stricter selection. The work in the vineyard was especially critical in 2006, with all possible steps taken to ensure ripe, clean grapes at the time of harvest. As Borie put it, "the sorting table is the last step before you hang yourself." The aristocratic 2006 has an IPT of 80 and alcohol of 13.2%.
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2005
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Whereas most chateau proprietors of the Northern Medoc indicated a preference for their cabernet sauvignon, and many of the best 2005s from this region feature a lower-than-usual percentage of merlot, Bruno Borie expressed the opinion that "the merlot was great" and made the decision to keep nearly all of it, as he felt it brought charm, power and elegance. In fact, he explained, "in 2005 our cabernet fruit showed the softness and smoothness of merlot, while our merlot had the structure of cabernet." The 2005 Ducru blend includes an unusually high 33% merlot content and, not surprisingly, an elevated alcohol level of 13.5%. (One of my fellow tasters noted that Ducru was the only chateau he visited where the grand vin was higher in alcohol than the estate's second wine; at virtually every other property, by all reports, it was the superripe lots that were declassified.) The young wine was atypically glossy and fleshy for a young Ducru, and many early tasters whose paradigm for Ducru runs toward a more discreet, austere wine seemed not to know quite what to do about this sweeter, more modern-style vintage. Incidentally, thanks in part to the high percentage of merlot, the IPT in 2005 is 71, significantly less than the 80 registered in 2003. But the 2005 is very rich in anthocyanins, or coloring material, notes Borie.
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2004
2022 - 2040
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2004
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Bruno Borie emphasized that La Croix de Beaucaillou is Ducru's second wine and that Lalande-Borie is from another property entirely: 25 hectares of vines to the west of Ducru, near Talbot and Lagrange. Ducru comes mostly from gravelly soil around the chateau, "an estuary microclimate," while La Croix de Beaucaillou, which normally includes a higher percentage of merlot than Ducru, comes from another 35 hectares of vines across the road toward Langoa- and Leoville-Barton, where the soil is similar but the climate different. Since taking over here in 2003, Borie has updated and modernized this wine through a host of small improvements in the vines and in the winery, perhaps the most important of which has been more precise harvesting and stricter selection. The work in the vineyard was especially critical in 2006, with all possible steps taken to ensure ripe, clean grapes at the time of harvest. As Borie put it, "the sorting table is the last step before you hang yourself." The aristocratic 2006 has an IPT of 80 and alcohol of 13.2%.
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2004
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Whereas most chateau proprietors of the Northern Medoc indicated a preference for their cabernet sauvignon, and many of the best 2005s from this region feature a lower-than-usual percentage of merlot, Bruno Borie expressed the opinion that "the merlot was great" and made the decision to keep nearly all of it, as he felt it brought charm, power and elegance. In fact, he explained, "in 2005 our cabernet fruit showed the softness and smoothness of merlot, while our merlot had the structure of cabernet." The 2005 Ducru blend includes an unusually high 33% merlot content and, not surprisingly, an elevated alcohol level of 13.5%. (One of my fellow tasters noted that Ducru was the only chateau he visited where the grand vin was higher in alcohol than the estate's second wine; at virtually every other property, by all reports, it was the superripe lots that were declassified.) The young wine was atypically glossy and fleshy for a young Ducru, and many early tasters whose paradigm for Ducru runs toward a more discreet, austere wine seemed not to know quite what to do about this sweeter, more modern-style vintage. Incidentally, thanks in part to the high percentage of merlot, the IPT in 2005 is 71, significantly less than the 80 registered in 2003. But the 2005 is very rich in anthocyanins, or coloring material, notes Borie.
00
2004
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Bruno Borie, in charge of this property since the 2003 growing season, has introduced a number of small improvements here ("I've worked on every detail"), with all changes designed to achieve greater precision, including work in the vines, harvesting strategy and selection for the grand vin Based on the 2003 and 2004 vintages, there seems little doubt that Borie is seeking to produce a more modern, fruit-driven style of wine. Borie carried out a drastic green harvest in 2004, leaving just four to six clusters per vine and ultimately making 49 hectoliters per hectare. When he harvested in early October, he told me, the pips "had a ripe hazelnut character." The young 2004, according to Borie, "is classic in the sense that it's not exotic." Incidentally, Borie kicked much of the merlot out of the final blend, because he didn't think it had enough length and elegance.
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2003
2021 - 2040
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2003
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Whereas most chateau proprietors of the Northern Medoc indicated a preference for their cabernet sauvignon, and many of the best 2005s from this region feature a lower-than-usual percentage of merlot, Bruno Borie expressed the opinion that "the merlot was great" and made the decision to keep nearly all of it, as he felt it brought charm, power and elegance. In fact, he explained, "in 2005 our cabernet fruit showed the softness and smoothness of merlot, while our merlot had the structure of cabernet." The 2005 Ducru blend includes an unusually high 33% merlot content and, not surprisingly, an elevated alcohol level of 13.5%. (One of my fellow tasters noted that Ducru was the only chateau he visited where the grand vin was higher in alcohol than the estate's second wine; at virtually every other property, by all reports, it was the superripe lots that were declassified.) The young wine was atypically glossy and fleshy for a young Ducru, and many early tasters whose paradigm for Ducru runs toward a more discreet, austere wine seemed not to know quite what to do about this sweeter, more modern-style vintage. Incidentally, thanks in part to the high percentage of merlot, the IPT in 2005 is 71, significantly less than the 80 registered in 2003. But the 2005 is very rich in anthocyanins, or coloring material, notes Borie.
00
2003
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Bruno Borie, in charge of this property since the 2003 growing season, has introduced a number of small improvements here ("I've worked on every detail"), with all changes designed to achieve greater precision, including work in the vines, harvesting strategy and selection for the grand vin Based on the 2003 and 2004 vintages, there seems little doubt that Borie is seeking to produce a more modern, fruit-driven style of wine. Borie carried out a drastic green harvest in 2004, leaving just four to six clusters per vine and ultimately making 49 hectoliters per hectare. When he harvested in early October, he told me, the pips "had a ripe hazelnut character." The young 2004, according to Borie, "is classic in the sense that it's not exotic." Incidentally, Borie kicked much of the merlot out of the final blend, because he didn't think it had enough length and elegance.
00
2003
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The 2003 Ducru weighs in at 13.2% alcohol, the highest ever for this chateau, according to Bruno Borie, who took over direction of this estate in 2003. (Francis-Xavier Borie is now installed at Grand-Puy-Lacoste, and is also responsible for Haut Batailley.) The yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, with Ducru losing some fruit to a July 15 hailstorm. As at so many other Bordeaux chateaux, the 2003 got a cooler-than-normal fermentation. According to Borie, the cap was kept immersed and wet and the pumpovers were light. Borie considers the young 2003 more complex and classic than the 2000 Ducru, as the tannins in the new vintage, he says, were superior.
00
2002
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The 2003 Ducru weighs in at 13.2% alcohol, the highest ever for this chateau, according to Bruno Borie, who took over direction of this estate in 2003. (Francis-Xavier Borie is now installed at Grand-Puy-Lacoste, and is also responsible for Haut Batailley.) The yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, with Ducru losing some fruit to a July 15 hailstorm. As at so many other Bordeaux chateaux, the 2003 got a cooler-than-normal fermentation. According to Borie, the cap was kept immersed and wet and the pumpovers were light. Borie considers the young 2003 more complex and classic than the 2000 Ducru, as the tannins in the new vintage, he says, were superior.
00
2002
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All three of our wines [Ducru, Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley] came from small crops of fully ripe grapes," Francois-Xavier Borie told me. The wind and cool nights in September suppressed the rot and were perfect for the maturation of the cabernet sauvignon. "We kept the fermentation temperatures down and did very little pumping over of the musts," said Borie. "The tannins practically extracted themselves. The 2002s feature very high tannin levels but they will be round wines."
00
2001
2021 - 2035
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2001
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The 2003 Ducru weighs in at 13.2% alcohol, the highest ever for this chateau, according to Bruno Borie, who took over direction of this estate in 2003. (Francis-Xavier Borie is now installed at Grand-Puy-Lacoste, and is also responsible for Haut Batailley.) The yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, with Ducru losing some fruit to a July 15 hailstorm. As at so many other Bordeaux chateaux, the 2003 got a cooler-than-normal fermentation. According to Borie, the cap was kept immersed and wet and the pumpovers were light. Borie considers the young 2003 more complex and classic than the 2000 Ducru, as the tannins in the new vintage, he says, were superior.
00
2001
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes the 2001 vintage as "sympathique." The late harvest, and the significant variation of temperature between days and nights in September, yielded what Borie called "an original fruit expression." When I asked for elaboration, he replied: "It's a cool wine: classic, elegant and long, more intellectual in style, in contrast to a hot one, which would be more massive, exotic, exuberant." The grapes in 2001 were healthy, he added, and they had plenty of natural sugar. I was not able to retaste the 2000 Ducru or Grand Puy Lacoste, as the wines were being fined.
00
2000
2025 - 2048
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2000
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All three of our wines [Ducru, Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley] came from small crops of fully ripe grapes," Francois-Xavier Borie told me. The wind and cool nights in September suppressed the rot and were perfect for the maturation of the cabernet sauvignon. "We kept the fermentation temperatures down and did very little pumping over of the musts," said Borie. "The tannins practically extracted themselves. The 2002s feature very high tannin levels but they will be round wines."
00
2000
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With the ripe cabernet skins of 2000, extraction during vinification was easy, said Francois-Xavier Borie. I found the young 2000 Ducru less dense and distinctly inscrutable alongside Borie Grand Puy Lacoste, but ultimately subtler and longer. Borie, too, favors Ducru, but admitted that in some years ('79, '86 and '90), he prefers GPL.
00
1999
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1999
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1999
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes the 2001 vintage as "sympathique." The late harvest, and the significant variation of temperature between days and nights in September, yielded what Borie called "an original fruit expression." When I asked for elaboration, he replied: "It's a cool wine: classic, elegant and long, more intellectual in style, in contrast to a hot one, which would be more massive, exotic, exuberant." The grapes in 2001 were healthy, he added, and they had plenty of natural sugar. I was not able to retaste the 2000 Ducru or Grand Puy Lacoste, as the wines were being fined.
00
1999
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With the ripe cabernet skins of 2000, extraction during vinification was easy, said Francois-Xavier Borie. I found the young 2000 Ducru less dense and distinctly inscrutable alongside Borie Grand Puy Lacoste, but ultimately subtler and longer. Borie, too, favors Ducru, but admitted that in some years ('79, '86 and '90), he prefers GPL.
00
1999
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Francois-Xavier Borie describes his '99 as fatter than the '98, with more enrobed tannins. In years when the pepins (grape seeds) are not completely ripe, Ducru lightens up considerably on its pump-overs during vinification, and the '99 Ducru is thus a wine that privileges fruit and finesse. Borie was considering lowering the price for the '99, though he admitted that reducing prices is psychologically difficult for most Medoc proprietors. Ducru now has a bright new air-conditioned barrel cellar designed for maximum air circulation. I was not able to retaste the '98 Ducru, as it was on its finings.
00
1998
2021 - 2040
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00
1998
2018 - 2034
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1998
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With the ripe cabernet skins of 2000, extraction during vinification was easy, said Francois-Xavier Borie. I found the young 2000 Ducru less dense and distinctly inscrutable alongside Borie Grand Puy Lacoste, but ultimately subtler and longer. Borie, too, favors Ducru, but admitted that in some years ('79, '86 and '90), he prefers GPL.
00
1998
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Grape sugars were higher than those of '97, and vinification of Ducru, as well as Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley, featured a bit more maceration than the previous year. The estate used vacuum evaporation to remove the excess water brought by swollen grapes. The wines here still do not go into barrel until after the malolactic fermentations. Francois-Xavier Borie believes that wines made in this manner are more flattering at the outset, but he not convinced that there's much of a difference six months later. The '98 Ducru struck me as yet another Medoc wine with lovely purity of aromatics that may or may not possess enough stuffing to merit an outstanding rating.
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1997
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Grape sugars were higher than those of '97, and vinification of Ducru, as well as Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley, featured a bit more maceration than the previous year. The estate used vacuum evaporation to remove the excess water brought by swollen grapes. The wines here still do not go into barrel until after the malolactic fermentations. Francois-Xavier Borie believes that wines made in this manner are more flattering at the outset, but he not convinced that there's much of a difference six months later. The '98 Ducru struck me as yet another Medoc wine with lovely purity of aromatics that may or may not possess enough stuffing to merit an outstanding rating.
00
1997
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If you just look for high alcohol, deep color and tannins, 1997 can be difficult to taste, notes Francois-Xavier Borie. But then grape sugars here, at 11.5%, were actually slightly higher than those of 1996. "We picked the fruit ripe but not overripe," adds Borie. "If we had waited longer we would have lost color and concentration." I was not able to retaste the '96s here, which were sur colle, but the finished '95 Ducru-Beaucaillou and Grand Puy Lacoste have turned out splendidly.
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1996
2021 - 2038
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1996
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1996
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Grape sugars were higher than those of '97, and vinification of Ducru, as well as Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut-Batailley, featured a bit more maceration than the previous year. The estate used vacuum evaporation to remove the excess water brought by swollen grapes. The wines here still do not go into barrel until after the malolactic fermentations. Francois-Xavier Borie believes that wines made in this manner are more flattering at the outset, but he not convinced that there's much of a difference six months later. The '98 Ducru struck me as yet another Medoc wine with lovely purity of aromatics that may or may not possess enough stuffing to merit an outstanding rating.
00
1995
2021 - 2040
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1995
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1995
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If you just look for high alcohol, deep color and tannins, 1997 can be difficult to taste, notes Francois-Xavier Borie. But then grape sugars here, at 11.5%, were actually slightly higher than those of 1996. "We picked the fruit ripe but not overripe," adds Borie. "If we had waited longer we would have lost color and concentration." I was not able to retaste the '96s here, which were sur colle, but the finished '95 Ducru-Beaucaillou and Grand Puy Lacoste have turned out splendidly.
00
1995
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Ducru can be a difficult wine to taste out of barrel, but even a palate of stone could appreciate the exquisite '95. This vintage received relatively long maceration by Ducru standards, and the young wine is characterized by fabulous aromatics—and a complete absence of hard tannins. The percentage of new barrels was increased to 60% in '95, up from 45% as recently as '93. (The '94 Ducru was not available for tasting.)
00
1994
2022 - 2026
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1990
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1990
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1989
2021 - 2028
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1989
2019 - 2025
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1989
2019 - 2026
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1988
2021 - 2025
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1988
2018 - 2025
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1986
2021 - 2025
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1986
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Brat exemplifies everything a restaurant should aspire towards in 2018. It is no wonder that the following day I find Tomos Parry splashed over the weekend supplements, with Brat declared as the hottest ticket in town.
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1985
2021 - 2025
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1983
2023 - 2040
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1982
2021 - 2026
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1982
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1979
2021 - 2026
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1978
2021 - 2032
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1976
2021 - 2026
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1975
2021 - 2030
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1975
2018 - 2030
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Stem is the third restaurant opening for Mark Jarvis following the much-lauded “Anglo” in Clerkenwell and “Neo Bistro” (also in Mayfair). On this showing, just days after its soft launch, “Stem” might well be the best.
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1971
2021 - 2024
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1970
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1967
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1966
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1962
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1962
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1959
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1957
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1955
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1953
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1934
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1928
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Upholding the tradition of a proper lunch with all its bells and whistles is the informally titled Grouse Club, formed for no reason but to share the titular game bird after the Glorious Twelfth.
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