2001 Barolo Pajana

Without question the most surprising 2001s I tasted were those of Domenico Clerico. I loved these wines when they were released, rated them highly and bought them for my own cellar. I tasted the 2001s with Domenico Clerico and his team during a visit in November 2011, and then opened the wines from my own cellar back in New York. Oddly, I found the wines from my cellar in better shape than the wines I tasted in Piedmont. Still, time has not been kind to Clerico's 2001s. I found all of the Baroli surprisingly forward and evolved. The tannins have softened some over the years, but now the fruit is dropping out and the wines are evolving rather quickly. The Langhe Rosso Arte, a 90% Nebbiolo/10% Barbera blend, is the wine that has aged best. And when the entry-level wine (Arte was the entry-level wine in 2001) has aged better than the top selections, there is a problem. Clerico was a long-time proponent of French oak, which he employed in very high levels until around 2005 or so. Maybe it was the toast levels. It's hard to say exacly. What is pretty clear is that the 2001s are evolving at a fast pace and aren't likely to improve much from here.

For this outspoken and intensely passionate vigneron the real work is done in the vineyards, which he tends to with near-fanatical obsession. Clerico's yields are among the lowest in the region, averaging around 35 hectoliters per hectare for the Barolos. Clerico is enthusiastic when it comes to his 2001s saying “it was a beautiful vintage, starting with the Dolcetto which had ideal conditions of heat and not too much cold. After the 20th of September we started to have cool nights and hot days, which allowed both the sugars and the tannins of the Nebbiolos to mature gradually and simultaneously, as was also the case with 1996, 1999, and 2004.” For his 2001 Barolos, Clerico did about 12-14 days of fermentation and maceration in rotary fermenters, using natural yeasts. The wines were aged 24 months in barriques, of which 85% were new for the Pajana and Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, while the Percristina saw 100% new oak. “It's the quality of the oak that makes the difference, not the amount,” says Clerico. “I use barriques to give my wines color and to provide oxigenation without doing any more racking other than that which is absolutely necessary, with the ultimate goal of not tasting the oak when the wines are ready to drink. I want my wines to be as natural as possible, so the wines are bottled without fining or filtration.” My favorite wine has typically been the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, which comes from vines planted at 400 meters with a south to southeast exposure, which gives the wine its characteristic explosive aromas. The Pajana comes from vineyard at 300 meters in altitude, with a due south exposure, and as would be expected, it is a less perfumed on the nose, but rounder and lusher on the palate. Clerico's Percristina is produced from old vines planted in the south-facing Mosconi cru. Stylistically I find it more similar to the Pajana, though the older vines give this wine a more concentrated profile along with heady, exotic aromas and flavors. The richly-colored 2001 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra opens with an unmistakable Ginestra nose of menthol, eucalyptus, spices and minerals. It is dense and structured, showing plenty of ripe dark cherry fruit, licorice, tar and toasted oak flavors, with exceptional length and sustain on the palate, and closing with an inviting, beautiful, lingering finish that makes you want to come back to the wine time and again.