2020 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru

Who’d want to be in Vincent Dauvissat’s shoes in such a traumatic year as 2020? Even this normally stoic winemaker found it difficult to hide his fatigue. Dauvissat told me that he commenced picking on August 31 and continued over the following nine days. My annual tasting is usually a battle between Dauvissat’s Chablis Les Clos and Les Preuses, and this year, I fell head over heels for the Les Clos, thanks to its precision, length and compelling sense of completeness, though the Les Preuses already boasts wonderful flintiness and tension. Elsewhere, head for the excellent 2020 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, which has more tension than a puppy that hasn’t gone for a walk for several days, and a very harmonious 2020 Chablis Les Séchets.