2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages
France
Côtes De Nuits Villages
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2019 vintage)
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It's hard to keep up with Sylvie Esmonin given her exuberance and energy. Esmonin began converting her vineyards to natural farming in 1990 but isn't fully convinced by biodynamics, which she views as a bit of a fad. Those are just details, though; the wines speak eloquently for themselves. Esmonin started harvesting on September 24, 2009, very late for the vintage. The wines underwent 18 days of contact on the skins (with no cold soak) and were then racked into oak where they spent about 12 months on their fine lees with no rackings. Esmonin is gradually working towards a greater use of wood uprights for fermenting and higher percentage of whole bunches than in the past.
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Sylvie Esmonin did a green harvest in July but did not do another one at the beginning of September because the grapes were blue and showed regular ripeness. By the time she harvested during the week of September 14, virtually no sorting was necessary. The malos were very late, ending between June and late October, and Esmonin did not plan to bottle until next spring. "A lot of my colleagues compare 2009 to 1999; I say the wines have the aromatic power of 2002, and practically the same tannic power as 2005," said Esmonin. "I also compare 2009 to 2003 in their development during elevage. I think they'll find their tannic power once they're in bottle, as the '03s did." Esmonin said she didn't know what the pHs were in 2009, noting that "even if I did, I wouldn't have changed anything anyway."
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