1998 Côte de Nuits-Villages
France
Côtes De Nuits Villages
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Sylvie Esmonin will be increasing her percentage of new oak in 2000 to 60% for the Gevrey villages and 75% for the Clos Saint-Jacques. One can only hope that these stylish wines will maintain their delicacy and finesse. Esmonin carried out a green harvest in July of '99, then did substantial leaf pulling to aerate the remaining fruit. Yields were still considerably higher than in '98, a harvest that required careful elimination of less ripe and less sound grapes. I found both of the recent vintages extremely attractive and easy to drink.
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"At the outset, the '98s were hard and inexpressive, like the '91s," reports Sylvie Esmonin. "They were not fruity wines, and one felt the acids. But the slow malolactic fermentations and the long time on the lees helped to complete the wines." The '98s show their terroir quite clearly, Esmonin adds, while the '97s would be harder to identify blind. "Nineteen ninety-eight is not powerful like the '96," she notes, "but it's still a vintage we'll be talking about later even if it's not so obvious today."
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