2011 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Sélection Massale
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Domaine Servin's 2012s are very strong across the board. The estate's fans can look forward to two wines from recently purchased sites in the 1er Crus Vaucoupin and Mont de Milieu, something you don't see everyday given the scarcity of land in Chablis. In speaking of the domaine's 2012s, estate manager Mark Cameron reported that skins were thick, but the August heat concentrated sugars, lowered acidity and also reduced potential yields. Yields were down about 20% across the board, mostly at the village and 1er Cru level. The domaine's 2011 are less consistent than the 2012s. A number of the wines are diluted, lack depth and are a bit green.
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Domaine Servin's 2011s show some of the vegetal, green elements that are typical of the vintage. Total acidity is down, yields are on the higher side, and quality in this vintage is uneven across the range. The 2010s are much more consistent. At Servin all of the premier crus are done in steel. The Vieilles Vignes and the Preuses see about 20% oak, while the Bouguerots and Clos are made entirely in oak. Most of the 2011s were in bottle at the time of my visit in late June 2012. The wines that had not been bottled were the Vieilles Vignes, Blanchots, Preuses, Bouguerots and Clos. All of the 2010s were in bottle, except for the Preuses.
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