2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Bonnes Mares
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2020 - 2040
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The Groffiers waited until September 15 to harvest and then picked in four days flat, with a large team. “There was some acid rot and swollen grapes in the young vines,” explained Nicolas Groffier, “and it could have been a catastrophe if we hadn’t picked quickly. ” Yields here were healthy but reasonable, with the crus under 40 hectoliters per hectare, and the grapes, said Groffier, were concentrated and ripe. They came in with around 12. 5% potential alcohol, and the wines were chaptalized to about 13%. Groffier does a lot of remontage (“all day long”) and pigeages to avoid reduction.
Groffier vinified most of his 2014s with a significant percentage of whole clusters “just to have potassium for the élevage, to preserve the youthfulness of the wines, which was especially important in 2014. The higher potassium from the stems provides a natural de-acidification, which we needed in 2014 due to the rainy season. ” He didn’t keep a lot of lees because he felt the wines were already fat enough.
"The 2014s show a maturity from sun," Groffier summarized, "while 2013 brought a maturity from terroir, a cooler ripeness. The 2013s are in the line of the 2005s and 1996s. And the 2014s are fresh despite their moderate acidity, like 2009 and 2007. They will probably evolve in a linear way."