2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

As a general rule, phenolic maturity was better in 2013 than in 2014 at the family estate, said Nicolas Groffier, who compared '13 to past vintages like 2005 and 1996 in its "cold but very ripe maturity." But the 2013s, he went on, are not hugely generous. "They are vins de connoisseur, while the 2014s are more opulent and will have broader appeal." Grape sugars at harvest in 2013 were typically just under 12 degrees. Groffier vinified with a high percentage of whole clusters due to the tiny grapes.

The young Nicolas Groffier is quickly making his mark at the family estate since taking over winemaking responsibilities in 2007. Although he continues to carry out an extended pre-fermentation cold maceration (15 days at 12 degrees C in 2013), he told me that today he's looking less for roundness and power and more for clarity, energy and ageability, partly by vinifying with a higher percentage of whole clusters. He harvested in three days flat in 2013 "in horrible weather" between October 7 and 9, bringing in his fruit with around 12% potential alcohol and chaptalizing to about 13%. Due in part to strong acidity levels, the malolactic fermentations finished as late as September and the wines had high levels of CO2 when I tasted them in November. They were to have been degassed the week after my visit and bottled by the end of 2014. This may have been my best visit to date to this estate, as some stunning wines were made here in both 2013 and 2012.