2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Bonnes Mares
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2025 - 2036
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A year ago, Nicolas Groffier compared his young 2012s to the family's 2002s, but they strike me as even denser than those wines, in spite of the fact that the young Groffier is now vinifying more for clarity than for thickness of texture. Thanks to use extensive use of whole-cluster fermentations, these 2012s offer an outstanding combination of sucrosité, acidity and minerality.
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Nicolas Groffier picked late in 2012, beginning on September 27 after a day of heavy rain and bringing in the crop in three days flat.In recent years, these wines have frequently shown an almost California-like ripeness and thickness of texture, and Groffier confirmed that he is looking for riper stems so that he can vinify with a high percentage of whole clusters "in order to calm and refine the wines."The fruit was ripe in 2012 without being high in potential alcohol, noted Groffier:grape sugars in 2012 were in the range of 12.3% to 13% and the wines were chaptalized about a degree."The wines have lowish total acidity but also low pHs; they have very good energy--they're more pinot than the 2011s," he told me.Groffier compared the 2011s to the '97s and the 2012s to the '02s.Following late malolactic fermentations, which ended between June and August, the '12s had been racked into tanks about ten days prior to my November visit. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com; Ideal Wine & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; H2Vino, www.h2vino.com; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com)
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2015 - 2024
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Nicolas Groffier's wines are distinguished by intense aromatics, racy fruit and sheer, up-front appeal. My preference is to drink the wines young, while the wine remains vibrant. Groffier favors long cold soaks and pump overs over punch downs. In 2012 Groffier used about 30-40% whole clusters, with the exception of the Bourgogne, which is made from fully destemmed fruit. All the wines had been racked at the time of this tasting.
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