2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Bonnes Mares
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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As is usually the case, the Groffier wines were in stainless steel tanks in their cold garage in November, 14 months after the harvest.But this time the malolactic fermentations took place extremely late:most of the wines had just finished in October, while the village Gevrey was just starting.Nicolas Groffier, who now makes the wines here with his father Serge, who in turn also works in the vineyards with his father Robert,told me that the 2011s are darker and denser than the 2010s. (He also said that he had expected the wines to turn out lighter than the 2007s but now finds that they have a lot of concentration.)Although he described 2011 as a sunny, strong year, the family started harvesting on September 5 with relatively low grape sugars between 11.3% and 12.2%.Following chaptalization, the wines will be bottled at 12.5% to 13%.Still, he was afraid that the 2011 fruit was too ripe and chocolatey at the outset and thus vinified with a portion of whole clusters.A long pre-fermentation cold soak lasting ten days is largely responsible for the blue tinge to these very dark wines. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com; The Vintner Group, www.thevintnergroup.com; Ideal Wines & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; H2Vino, www.h2vino.com; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com)
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