2010 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Bonnes Mares
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Nicolas Groffier, who has taken over winemaking duties here, told me the family harvested in two and a half days in 2010, beginning on September 27. Grape sugars were in the 12.7% to 12.8% range, he reported, and there was more phenolic maturity than in 2009. The wines are very concentrated owing to the small grapes. He loves the sugar/acid balance of the wines and added back about 10% of the stems during the fermentation. (Perhaps this technique explains why these wines showed less easy sweetness than past vintages at the same stage of their evolution.) As the harvest was carried out during very cool weather, the fermentations took 10 to 15 days to start, and the month-long cuvaison was the longest ever for this estate. Groffier describes the 2010s as a bit 2002-like, "but with less acidity after the malos." The Groffiers are now using 25-millimeter-wide corks rather than 24 to insure the tightest possible seal on their bottles. As is normally the case, I tasted the new set of wines from tank. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; H2Vino, Chicago, IL; also imported by Atherton Imports, Atherton, CA)