2003 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Serge Groffier told me that rot and oidium were not serious problems in 2004, and that the family's vineyards received very little hail, but a strict selection was nevertheless necessary to eliminate the less-ripe grapes. "It's a vintage for medium-term keeping," he said. "The wines should remain fresh for eight or nine years and age slowly. "The Groffiers harvested their Amoureuses, with special derogation, a day before the official start to the harvest, with potential alcohol of 13. 5%. As is often the case, the Groffiers' 2004 Bourgogne was one of the best I tasted in Burgundy, and the Passetoutgrains was an outperformer as well. A couple of the hugely concentrated, superripe 2003s were particularly impressive in November; the Groffiers made acid adjustments to the musts and after the vinification. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)

The Groffier 2003s were tricky wines to assess in November, as they had been racked and sulfited ten days to two weeks before my visit, and the aromas had not yet recovered from the pumping.As in some recent very warm years, the Groffiers, whose tireless work in the vineyards helps them get their fruit ripe early, brought in extremely ripe grapes with very high potential alcohol.As a result, some of these wines are very much in the roasted style of 2003.The Groffiers did a shorter cold maceration than usual, but still six or seven days, then carried out two pigeages per day, vs. a normal three or four.Serge Groffier told me that all the 2003s were acidified, adding "anyone who says he didn't acidify in 2003 is a liar."By the way, don't miss the Groffiers' Bourgogne Rouge, which offers uncanny fleshiness and density, intense dark fruit flavors and 13.5% natural alcohol.(A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)