2002 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Bonnes Mares
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2016 - 2026
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The Groffier 2003s were tricky wines to assess in November, as they had been racked and sulfited ten days to two weeks before my visit, and the aromas had not yet recovered from the pumping.As in some recent very warm years, the Groffiers, whose tireless work in the vineyards helps them get their fruit ripe early, brought in extremely ripe grapes with very high potential alcohol.As a result, some of these wines are very much in the roasted style of 2003.The Groffiers did a shorter cold maceration than usual, but still six or seven days, then carried out two pigeages per day, vs. a normal three or four.Serge Groffier told me that all the 2003s were acidified, adding "anyone who says he didn't acidify in 2003 is a liar."By the way, don't miss the Groffiers' Bourgogne Rouge, which offers uncanny fleshiness and density, intense dark fruit flavors and 13.5% natural alcohol.(A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)
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Robert and Serge Groffier love vintage 2002 for its harmony and density. The wines are fatter than the 2001s and have great texture for aging," notes Robert, "but the grape sugars were actually lower in 2002."Indeed, the 2002s I tasted from stainless steel tanks in November showed extraordinary sweetness and density.But the Groffiers' 2001s show even more freakish ripeness in the context of the earlier vintage. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Import!, Madison, WI; and The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL)
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