1998 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Robert and Serge Groffier, tireless grape-farmers who generally produce far lower crop loads than their neighbors, made close to the maximum yields in the huge '99 harvest, and basically told me that anyone who claims he or she made significantly less is a blagueur(joker, or bullshitter). Despite the full crop, the fruit was gloriously ripe, and the Groffiers believe their '99s have more material, and sweeter tannins, than their superb '98s. They gave the fruit a ten-day pre-fermentation maceration at 8oC, then aged the wines for a year on their lees without racking before transferring them to tank in early October, where they were to have spent a few months digesting their SO2 before the bottling. Although my notes begin with the Groffiers' Gevrey villages their Passetoutgrain, from nearly all pinot noir, is worth a special mention: the '99 offers uncanny fruit for its category. And their '99 Bourgogne Rouge has the freshness and flavor intensity of many growers' premier crus. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; and The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL)

In recent years, Robert and Serge Groffier have been making some of Burgundy's most concentrated, perfumed, and richly detailed wines, thanks in large part to their strict control of yields. Yields here averaged under 28 hectoliters per hectare in 1997, and just 30 in '98. The '98s had been moved to cuves about three weeks prior to my visit and should be stunning. The '97s, meanwhile, are among the stars of that year: they have captured the great silky ripeness of the vintage while retaining aromatic vibrancy and precision of flavor. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; and The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL)