2023 Saint-Joseph
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2028 - 2038
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Pulling my car into the driveway of brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon means I’ve arrived. Gonon is what Saint-Joseph is all about: elegance, classicism and a level of terroir-driven transparency that is hard to beat. The 2022 red is stunning, firmly placing itself at the top of the appellation's quality pyramid. It’s always a rare treat to taste their Chasselas, a wine that’s virtually impossible to find on the market because of its tiny production—often fewer than 1,000 bottles. Jean Gonon reported healthy yields of 38 hl/ha for the 2023 reds, noting that during the August heatwave, sugar ripening stalled at times, but phenolic ripeness continued. This progression helped the tannins achieve full maturity by harvest. The next generation of Gonons is also beginning to contribute, with Pierre’s son Louis joining the domaine just a week before my November visit. To finish our tasting, Jean Gonon poured a wine blind, which yours truly nailed on the first attempt—the magnificent 2010, now entering its prime drinking window.