2007 Saint-Joseph
France
Saint Joseph
Northern Rhône
Red
Syrah/Shiraz
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?The Gonon brothers, Pierre and Jean, took over the family's nine-hectare estate when their father Pierre fell ill and have established themselves as one of the leading producers in Saint-Joseph.? Jean told me that his family is fortunate to have syrah vines that are from 45 to 90 years of age and especially to have 2.5 hectares in Saint Jean de Muzols that belonged to Raymond Trollat before he retired.? The rest of Gonon's vines lie in Tournon and their hometown of Mauves.? Long-time Rhone lovers know that Trollat made some of the best wines of the entire RhoneValley in the 1980s and 1990s and the Gonon style cleaves closely to Trollat's traditional expression of syrah.? Whole clusters are used here ("except in a year like 2008, where the stems didn't ripen and we had to de-stem everything") and new oak is kept to the bare minimum.? The Gonons use demi-muids and foudres for their wines "to get the maximum expression of the wine" and crop their syrah vines at a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, which Jean says "isn't that hard with our steep sites and old vines."? The plowing here is done with a horse and no chemicals are used in the vineyards, with all fertilizing done with their own compost.?