2013 Saint-Aubin Les Combes
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Philippe Colin harvested from September 28 through October 4, finishing before the Saturday rain, explaining that the chardonnay was ripe before the pinot noir in 2013.Grape sugars were in the 12% to 12.5% range and he chaptalized his wines up to one degree.The '13s had been sulfited two weeks before my visit.Colin describes this vintage as classic; at the outset he feared making rather cutting wines in the style of the 2007s but now finds the wines to be more open and aromatic than he would have predicted.Colin, who is not a fan of sharply reduced crop levels in chardonnay, told me that a yield of around 50 hectoliters per hectare normally provides good balance; he made about 30 in 2012 and potential alcohol levels were a very ripe 13.5% to 13.7%.Colin describes his 2012s as "mid-term agers that need to gain in freshness and definition."He's not yet convinced that they are sufficiently chiseled to be outstanding.
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