1999 Riesling Schlossberg

Philippe Blanck, responsible for the commercial side of this large family domain business, described the '99 and '00 vintages as "two very different expressions of terroir Nineteen ninety-nine was a cold vintage, especially in our marl [cool, calcareous clay] and clay soils; the key to the vintage was having sufficiently ripe acidity. In contrast, 2000 was a hot year. We needed dry extract in 2000 but we couldn't simply pick later because this would have given us dangerously low acidity." According to Frederic Blanck, who is in charge of vineyards and vinification, aeration of the bunches and the tougher skins of the grapes in 2000 helped the vines fend off the effects of rain. "Also, the canopy work we now do is important for both sun and aeration," Frederic explained. "And with the plowing we do to break up the ground, the rain goes directly into the soil, rather than bouncing and reaching the leaves. So the mildew goes into the grass, not into the vines." I focused my tastings on the Blancks' lieu-dit and grand cru bottlings, the latter of which are released during the third year following the harvest (the family also has a negociant arm). But even the more basic cuvees here are consistently competent. Based on my extensive tastings of the past four vintages, this is now one of Alsace's top dozen sources. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Grand Cru Imports, Philadelphia, PA; Katherine Strange Wines, Los Angeles, CA)