2009 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
France
Clos De Vougeot
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2019 - 2042
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2019 - 2039
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Sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret made some of the very best wines of the year. Their 2009s capture the silky, sexy personality of the vintage while maintaining a classic, mid-weight sense of structure.
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2024 - 2044
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This is an impressive set of wines from sisters Marie-Andrée and Marie-Christine Mugneret. I can't think of too many estates that did so well in both 2008 and 2009. Beginning with The 2009 vintage, the estate has simplified their name to Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, which should eliminate some of the confusion of past years. The 2009 harvest began on September 12. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Marie-Andrée 81 Mugneret told me she was concerned about over-extracting given the inherent richness in the fruit, so she opted for a gentle approach to vinification. Cuvaison ranged from 15-20 days. After pressing the wines were moved into oak, where they saw one racking just after the malos. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 25% for the Vosne-Romanée, 40% for the Chaignots, 45% for the Feusselottes and 70% for the grand crus, from four different coopers. During the time of my visit the wines were being moved into steel, where they would remain for three months prior to bottling. Mugneret planned to bottle with no fining or filtration. Readers should also pay attention to the estate's 2008s, which are simply brilliant. The 2008 harvest started on the 22nd of September. Some of the malos took as long as a year to finish.
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You might imagine that 2009 would play to the strengths of the Mugneret sisters, whose wines are generally characterized by lowish pHs and sound acidity, and you'd be right. Their 2009s are plenty ripe (some cuvees were chaptalized a bit to prolong the fermentations), but pHs are in the 3.4 to 3.45 range, and the wines show floral and orange zest high notes that I looked for in vain in most other cellars. Marie-Andree Mugneret told me that the matiere premiere was of comparable strength to 2005, and that the sisters did one pigeage per day during the peak of fermentation but did not want to extract too long. "We used our eyes and ears to follow the strength of the fermentation," she added. Marie-Christine Mugneret describes 2009 as "a vintage of pleasure, to drink before the 2008s." The 2009s finished their malos in April and May and were racked in July. Incidentally, the 2009 Bourgogne, weighing in at a natural 13.7% alcohol but retaining excellent verve and backbone, should be an outperformer.(A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA; and The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL)
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