2015 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru

It was a family affair visiting Domaine Michel Lafarge. As usual, Frédéric Lafarge was accompanied by daughter, Clothilde, as well as his son, Max, who has entered the Domaine.

“We de-budded early in the season, over three weeks in May, leaving six buds per cane at the beginning of May. Therefore, we did not have to do a green harvest. There was no excess during the growing season, just a heatwave before harvest that began on September 7 with the Volnay Premier Crus. We have around 25 harvesters, and, due to the warm weather, we wanted a big group, so we were able to harvest all the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay in eight days. We did a big picking in the morning and then just one hour after lunch, with all the grapes picked after 11 a.m. kept in the fridge as we do not have thermoregulated concrete/wooden vats. The yields were 45 hl/ha to 47 hl/ha. There was no destemming by hand as the temperatures were too high – it would have taken too long. The wines will be bottled next spring.”

Though I feel that Lafarge’s 2022s are the better long-term bet, their 2023s have much to offer for their sheer class and drinkability. Plus, their Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs and Clos des Chênes are delicious, soulful wines, cuvées that have an unerring ability to mature over time.

As usual, I tasted with Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde at their somewhat labyrinthine winery in Volnay, with so many annexes you could easily get lost. Then again, there are a few wineries that I would like to get lost in.

“Despite the canicule [long period of hot, dry weather], we have a good freshness in the wine,” Lafarge explained. “We didn’t have any hydric stress, and I think this is because of our biodynamic treatments in the vineyard. We harvested from August 26 until 17 September, finishing with the Aligoté. The reds came in at around 13.5% alcohol. I think that the 2022s will give us more pleasure than 2021.” Readers will welcome a return to the various iterations of Volnay Premier Cru in 2022, blended together last year because of the devastating frosts to create a Volnay Premier Cru, as well as the return of their “Vendange Sélectionée” that are only made in years where they can really see a difference. As a big fan of Lafarge, I admit I was a bit disappointed by the 2021s last year when I felt the growing season’s extreme challenges threw them off course. But in 2022, they are “back in the saddle”. Those who appreciate Lafarge’s traditional style will want to have these in their cellar, especially their Clos des Chênes and Clos du Château des Ducs: exquisite, transparent, ethereal wines that will surely mature supremely well in bottle. Don’t ignore their Passetoutgrain and Bourgogne Aligoté; both are exquisite this year and easier on the wallet (not that Lafarge’s ex-cellar tariffs are unreasonable).

Frédéric Lafarge guided me through his complete set of 2020s, from both the Côte d’Or and Beaujolais, and his daughter Clothilde joined us later. “The vines had regular and early growth,” Lafarge told me, buzzing between barrels. “Maturity came quickly. There was no hydric stress. We started the harvest on August 20 and finished on August 28, then picked the Hautes-Côtes and finally the Aligoté. I think the vines have adapted, and so they are different from 2003.” Readers should note that in 2020, Lafarge made two Passetoutgrains, the as yet unnamed second cuvée a selection from 92-year-old vines, quite different and absolutely delicious. His raft of Volnays were sublime: pure, quite structured, fresh and articulating their respective terroirs; the Les Caillerets and Les Pitures, in particular, are both superb. I was also very taken with Lafarge’s Beaune Grèves this year.

Whenever I visit Domaine Michel Lafarge I always keep an eye out for the legendary man himself, pottering somewhere in the winery despite his advancing years. Sadly, he passed away earlier this year, leaving his avuncular son Frédéric and granddaughter Clothilde to carry the flame of one of Volnay’s most beloved producers. One part of the Domaine that is unaltered is the unofficial world’s slowest elevator as we descended at snail’s pace to the warren of adjoining underground cellars. “We had a small crop because of the frost on 5 April,” Lafarge explained, pipette fully loaded. “But the flowering was rapid over four or five days, finishing around 8 or 9 June. We started the harvest on the 9 September and picked until the 18 or 19 September. The average yields are around 25hl/ha and represent only 35% of a normal yield. As usual, everything is de-stemmed and alcohol levels are between 13.2° and 13.5°. What I like in the 2019s is the fine purity. I find each terroir is distinct. In the Volnay Caillerets we replanted half the vineyard using a spiral type of pruning that concentrates the energy of the vine. We have to work this by hand as the planting density is 20,000 vines per hectares and we use a horse to work the vineyard.”

This was an exquisite range of barrel samples from Lafarge. Frankly, these days, I do not expect anything less. Lafarge captures that essence of Pinoté like few others. Despite the heat of the growing season, their 2019s shrug that off the warmth so that from top to bottom, every cru is quintessentially Lafarge. The Volnay Clos des Chênes and Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru are perhaps predictably the standouts, the latter Frédéric Lafarge’s personal favourite.

Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde greeted me at their winery ensconced down one of Volnay's arteries, no doubt the indefatigable nonagenarian Michel Lafarge, out in the vineyard ploughing by hand. Down in their 13th century cellar lacquered in black mold, I tasted through their entire range from the Côte d'Or plus their quintet of Beaujolais wines. "The 2018 vintage was an ideal season," Frédéric enthused. "It was warm and dry. The vines' [vegetative] cycle was very regular with rain just when we wanted it. We began picking on 1 September with hardly any sorting necessary, finishing on 13 September except for the Volnay Vendage Sélectionée that was picked on 23 September. The 2018s have enormous potential, but they are accessible. What I like is that each terroir is very expressive. The reds will be bottled in April next year."

Domaine Michel Lafarge, alongside Marquis d’Angerville, has long been the leading Volnay grower. In recent years under Frédéric Lafarge, I feel that the wines have stepped up another gear. Having tasted their wines back to the 1930s, in my opinion they have never made better wines than in this very decade. It was a pleasure to meet the next generation of the very family-driven domaine. Frédéric Lafarge’s daughter Clothilde took me through the wines, and her father, tied up with the bottling line, joined us halfway through. “We were saved from the frost this year by the burning of bales of hay,” Frédéric Lafarge told me down in the small cellar that houses his top cuvées, the walls covered in thick black mould. “It was warm and dry during the summer and there was very good flowering, very rapid. The harvest commenced on September 1 in Pommard Les Pezerolles and finished on September 5. I just waited to pick a little longer to achieve phenolic maturity. The sanitary conditions were perfect and so we did not need to sort. There was no chaptalisation in 2017; after all, it is a vintage of sun and warmth. I asked my father if it compares to other vintages and he mentioned 1964 and 1947. But there is good freshness and the terroir is very present.”

After a raft of sensational wines in the last three years, the 2017s follow in less concentrated style, yet they remain noble and complex. As Frédéric Lafarge stated, they reflect their terroirs. Naturally, the heart of the range lies within the Volnay appellation, and let’s not beat about the bush: the Clos du Château des Ducs is a candidate for best Côte de Beaune. It is a tailored wine, each and every stem plucked by hand over 30 hours, seamless in terms of tannins and armed with stunning depth and precision. This Volnay lit up the dark cellar. The Clos des Chênes is also a brilliant wine, if perhaps without quite the same penetration, and don’t overlook the domaine’s entry-level wines either. If your request for Volnay Premier Cru seems to have got lost in the post, then stock up on a few bottles of delicious Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay that is 750ml of fun. I also stepped across into Beaujolais with four crus bottled under the Domaine Lafarge-Vial label, both the Fleurie Clos Vernay and my personal favorite, Côte de Brouilly, showing beautifully.

Along with a few of their neighbors in Volnay, such as Domaine d’Angerville, the Lafarges have had great difficulty meeting the demands of their loyal clients in recent years. During the five vintages from 2012 through 2016, said Frédéric Lafarge, the estate has produced the equivalent of 1.75 harvests, and yields were down 70% in 2016. Although Lafarge described 2016 as a complicated year, noting that “we’ve never before seen a frost that went as high up in the premier crus,” he finds the wines to be “joyous, with pure fruit and mineral tension, great charm and depth, and very subtle, enrobed tannins.” He added that the wines are well-balanced and that he doesn’t see any obvious differences between those made from a tiny crop level of 10 hectoliters per hectare and those made from 25.

The '16s had been racked in August but were still on their fine lees in barrel in January, with the bottling scheduled for April.

It was a challenge tasting a few of Lafarge's 2014s following his splendid 2015s, as the earlier vintage does not have the aromatic range or fruit sweetness of the later set of wines The estate had to deal with serious hail issues, according to Frédéric Lafarge, and produced less than half of a normal crop in 2014 Their vineyards in Beaune and especially in Pommard Pezerolles (this cuvée was not made in 2014) were even more affected than their Volnay parcels

It was a challenge tasting a few of Lafarge's 2014s following his splendid 2015s, as the earlier vintage does not have the aromatic range or fruit sweetness of the later set of wines. The estate had to deal with serious hail issues, according to Frédéric Lafarge, and produced less than half of a normal crop in 2014. Their vineyards in Beaune and especially in Pommard Pezerolles (this cuvée was not made in 2014) were even more affected than their Volnay parcels.

Following a hot, dry spring and a very good early flowering, most of June brought ideal conditions, said Frédéric Lafarge. But then the devastating hailstorm on the 28th cost this estate 55% of its 2014 crop. According to Lafarge, the family's holdings in Beaune and in Pommard Pezerolles were the worst hit (they will not bottle a Pezerolles), but even the yields in their Volnay parcels were in the very low 15 to 20 hectoliters-per-hectare range. Lafarge noted that the estate's total production in 2014, 2013 and 2012 was roughly equal to their output in the copious 2009 harvest.

During a cool, gloomy July, the Lafarges did substantial work to treat the vines that had been affected by hail. Happily, good weather returned in September and the Lafarges started harvesting on the 17th, picking in good conditions."We needed to wait for phenolic maturity, which advanced steadily but very slowly," said Lafarge."And the sugar levels in the grapes did not mount." In the end, the fruit came in with potential alcohol in the 12% to 12. 3% range, said Lafarge, who described the 2014s as "pure, balanced wines with silky, enrobed tannins," adding that in some vineyards there were as many as 120 days between the flowering and harvest. Father Michel, who started vinifying in 1950, compared 2014 to 1966 and 1978 "in its precision and long growing season. The wines have an excellent mineral framework and will age for a long time," he said.

Incidentally, the Lafarges have a new venture in Beaujolais (in Fleurie and Chiroubles) and the 2014s, made from fruit picked on the late side (the Fleurie was harvested on September 25, according to Frederic) and vinified and aged in a traditional style, boast lovely purity of fruit, noteworthy energy and enticing aromatic perfume.

Lafarge is another Côte de Beaune domain that has lost the equivalent of a full vintage over the last three years, as production here was 20% of normal in 2012, 35% in 2013, and 50% in 2014. According to Frédéric Lafarge, 2013 brought "very complete skin ripeness and low alcohol, and outstanding purity of terroir." But the harvest took place in October and therefore gave "a different balance," he added. There was no rot at harvest-time, but that was due to the work the Lafarges had done in the vines to eliminate damaged grapes. Grape sugars were in the 11.7% to 12% range and the finished wines won't be higher than 12.5%. Lafarge told me that the estate's 2012s have great aging potential, and that 2013 is "a harmonious year to drink before 2012."

This is a gorgeous set of 2012s from Michel and Chantal Lafarge. Tasting the wines from barrel at Lafarge usually involves a bit of back and forth between the several mold-covered cellars. Not in 2012. Yields are down a heartbreaking 80%. Some wines weren't made at all, such as the Pommard Pezerolles, which went into the Bourgogne, and the Beaune Aigrots and Greves, which were bottled together as a straight 1er Cru. The wines themselves are gorgeous. What amazes me most is how, even with the tiny yields, the 2012s remain faithful to the house style, something that is not the case at all domaines in the Côte de Beaune. Readers who can find these gorgeous wines should not hesitate. Second chances aren't likely to come around with the 2012s.

As was the case at Domaine d'Angerville, my November visit here was bittersweet, as the Lafarges have virtually no wine to sell.The 2012 crop was the smallest ever recorded here, down 80% from a normal year, according to Michel Lafarge.Many wines were declassified due to insufficient quantities to vinify (the Pommard Pezerolles actually went into the Bourgogne Rouge)."We had hailstorms both from the north and from the south, so both sides of the plants were hit," said Frederic Lafarge.The Lafarges started harvesting on September 20 with their Volnay Mitans and Chateau des Ducs, but the Clos des Chenes wasn't ready to be picked yet.The tiny crop has "great potential and outstanding saline purity of terroir," Michel noted."Tasting the wines today, we never could imagine the stress and violence of the growing season."Virtually the entire 2012 crop was aging in the family cellar's tiny inner sanctum. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., www.martinscottwines.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)

Frederic Lafarge describes 2011 as a "classic vintage considering the early harvest.The wines show great precision of terroir, with low sugars and plenty of material.They're like the better vintages of the '80s."Veteran Michel Lafarge, whose experience with this domain goes back to 1949, compared 2011 to 1952 "in its material and suavity."Interestingly, Frederic finds the 2011s to be purer and more primary than the 2010s, and believes they will be better to drink after the '10s. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., www.martinscottwines.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)

Yields were down 40% in 2010 at Lafarge. According to Frédéric Lafarge, a superb September saved a year marked by damp, cold weather during the flowering and later throughout the summer. On the positive side, the low yields per plant allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. The 2010s were racked in mid-August 2011 and were aging on their fine lees when I tasted them from barrel in November 2011. As pretty as the 2010s are, today I have a slight preference for the 2009s. That said, the 2010s are terrific, and many of the wines are at or near the top of their respective peer groups.

"We had half of a normal crop in 2010," said Frederic Lafarge. "The wines are very deep but sharply chiseled, with no single element dominating, and the terroir shows through clearly." The 2010s have a different structure from the 2008s, he added. "They will always be elegant and subtle," he explained, "while the 2008s will take longer to reveal themselves." Father Michel compares the 2010s to the '89s and the '62s. "They should be ready to drink in five or six years but they will last well." The Lafarges do one pigeage by foot per day through the fermentation. All the wines I tasted had been racked just before the 2011 harvest. (A Becky Wassserman Selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. In 2009 Lafarge began harvesting on September 9. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted The 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom.

"The 2009s combine the richness of the '64s with the elegance of the '66s," says Michel Lafarge, who has seen a few vintages in his time. "And there's a real purity of terroir in 2009," he added. "In comparison, the 2005s and 1990s were more marked by their vintage." One reason for this: "With organic viticulture, we get phenolic maturity without exaggerated sugars." According to Frederic Lafarge, grape sugars were in the 12.8% to 13.3% range, and the ripe, tasty acidity contributes to the impression of fruit. Yields in 2009 here were "normal," he added, around 38 hectoliters per hectare for the premier crus. He believes that both the 2009s and 2008s here will be long agers. The Lafarges began harvesting their '09 premier crus on September 9. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

"Millerandage kept the 2008 crop down in the first place," said Frederic Lafarge, "and in the end the fruit came in with around 12.5% potential alcohol, with very little chaptalization done." The selection here was mostly a matter of eliminating chardonnay grapes that had been affected by hail, although there was also some damage in Volnay vineyards. Lafarge believes the 2008 reds will be "a long-aging vintage but less hard than some," which sounds to me like a very good formula for a vintage to cellar. Yields were generally in the very low 25 to 28 hectoliters-per-hectare range. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

"Millerandage kept the 2008 crop down in the first place," said Frederic Lafarge, "and in the end the fruit came in with around 12.5% potential alcohol, with very little chaptalization done." The selection here was mostly a matter of eliminating chardonnay grapes that had been affected by hail, although there was also some damage in Volnay vineyards. Lafarge believes the 2008 reds will be "a long-aging vintage but less hard than some," which sounds to me like a very good formula for a vintage to cellar. Yields were generally in the very low 25 to 28 hectoliters-per-hectare range. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The flowering here occurred between May 20 and 25, said Frederic Lafarge, and then the weather remained cool and gloomy until the beginning of August. The estate brought in its pinot noir between August 31 and September 5, with no shortage of phenolic material, and grape sugars were generally 12.8% and up, requiring very little chaptalization. Lafarge describes the wines as "charming, but with good structure and length." It was interesting tasting the young '07s next to the '06s-another vintage that Lafarge described as charming in the early going. Yes, the '06s have nicely enrobed tannins, but I found a bit more mineral austerity in several of the wines. For his part, Lafarge still believes that the '06s will be for drinking before the '07s, which he believes will be best between about 2015 and 2022. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)

The flowering here occurred between May 20 and 25, said Frederic Lafarge, and then the weather remained cool and gloomy until the beginning of August. The estate brought in its pinot noir between August 31 and September 5, with no shortage of phenolic material, and grape sugars were generally 12.8% and up, requiring very little chaptalization. Lafarge describes the wines as "charming, but with good structure and length." It was interesting tasting the young '07s next to the '06s-another vintage that Lafarge described as charming in the early going. Yes, the '06s have nicely enrobed tannins, but I found a bit more mineral austerity in several of the wines. For his part, Lafarge still believes that the '06s will be for drinking before the '07s, which he believes will be best between about 2015 and 2022. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)

"A very good, charming vintage," said Frederic Lafarge of 2006. "It was a vintage made in the vines. The level of ripeness and the sanitary conditions made all the difference. Those who had to do a lot of sorting had problems." The premier crus are in the 13% alcohol range without chaptalization. Interestingly, Lafarge told me that pHs and crop levels were similar in 2006 and 2005 (around 3.5 and 35-38 h/h, respectively). "But you can't compare '06 to '05 in power, density or length," he said. "Still, in five or six years the '06s will be the better vintage to drink." The 2005s here have turned out fabulously. "Two thousand five was a year that agrees with Volnay, because in this village we're less likely to have made overly fleshy, powerful wines. Pommard is much more muscular in 2005." (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)

"A very good, charming vintage," said Frederic Lafarge of 2006. "It was a vintage made in the vines. The level of ripeness and the sanitary conditions made all the difference. Those who had to do a lot of sorting had problems." The premier crus are in the 13% alcohol range without chaptalization. Interestingly, Lafarge told me that pHs and crop levels were similar in 2006 and 2005 (around 3.5 and 35-38 h/h, respectively). "But you can't compare '06 to '05 in power, density or length," he said. "Still, in five or six years the '06s will be the better vintage to drink." The 2005s here have turned out fabulously. "Two thousand five was a year that agrees with Volnay, because in this village we're less likely to have made overly fleshy, powerful wines. Pommard is much more muscular in 2005." (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)

"A great vintage, clearly the best since 1990," said Michel Lafarge about 2005. "And the wines are a bit more typical for pinot; they express their terroirs accurately. There is a regularity of expression all the way up the ladder of our sites." The Lafarges carried out what Michel called "a moderate extraction," which included one punchdown per day. He noted that in wood or concrete vats, as opposed to stainless steel, the temperature descends more slowly at the end of the fermentations, which allows several days of further maceration without any need for intervention. When I asked Lafarge if he did some whole cluster fermentation in 2005, he said no, but noted that with the gentler destemmer the estate now uses, more whole berries go into the vat. "But skins don't bring anything good," he maintained. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA) Also recommended: Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees (86).

"A great vintage, clearly the best since 1990," said Michel Lafarge about 2005. "And the wines are a bit more typical for pinot; they express their terroirs accurately. There is a regularity of expression all the way up the ladder of our sites." The Lafarges carried out what Michel called "a moderate extraction," which included one punchdown per day. He noted that in wood or concrete vats, as opposed to stainless steel, the temperature descends more slowly at the end of the fermentations, which allows several days of further maceration without any need for intervention. When I asked Lafarge if he did some whole cluster fermentation in 2005, he said no, but noted that with the gentler destemmer the estate now uses, more whole berries go into the vat. "But skins don't bring anything good," he maintained. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA) Also recommended: Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees (86).

Michel Lafarge told me that he did a pass through the vines to eliminate the worst of the hail-affected fruit, then harvested in two passes, which made it much easier to vinify with only the healthy material. The fruit was completely destemmed but not crushed, and the Lafarges then did their normal extraction. The malos were late, and the wines had been racked for the first time between May and September. Lafarge's top 2003 cuvees, which were not acidified but possess huge tannic support, are likely to be long-lived. These wines were aged in all used barrels because Lafarge wanted to preserve terroir and felt that the wines did not need wood tannins. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Los Angeles, CA)

Michel Lafarge told me that he did a pass through the vines to eliminate the worst of the hail-affected fruit, then harvested in two passes, which made it much easier to vinify with only the healthy material. The fruit was completely destemmed but not crushed, and the Lafarges then did their normal extraction. The malos were late, and the wines had been racked for the first time between May and September. Lafarge's top 2003 cuvees, which were not acidified but possess huge tannic support, are likely to be long-lived. These wines were aged in all used barrels because Lafarge wanted to preserve terroir and felt that the wines did not need wood tannins. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd. , Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; Vinalia Imports, Los Angeles, CA)

Michel Lafarge described 2003 as "a year of panic.No one waited, but we stayed calm.After all, we had no rot and plenty of sun."Still, Lafarge began harvesting on the early side, on August 22, and picked only until shortly after noon, chilling the grapes that came into the cuverie after 10:00 in the morning.Lafarge eschewed acidification, in the belief that the wines had the tannic structure to take the place of acidity, "as in Bordeaux."The wines went into barrel as soon as the alcoholic fermentations finished, and most of the malos took place in November and December.They were racked in May, as usual, and were still on their lees in November.Yields ranged from 14 to 23 hectoliters per hectare, held down more by spring frost than summer heat."We knew since May that we'd have a small crop," explained Lafarge.I asked Lafarge to compare 2003 to 1976."The big difference is that in 1976 we had no rain from the end of February on.In '03 we had several small rains.In '76, the vegetation was completely blocked, even before the flowering, and there was no sap flowing through the vines.The berries were ultimately even smaller than those of 2003, and we had hard, astringent tannins." (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in May 2012

Michel Lafarge described 2003 as "a year of panic.No one waited, but we stayed calm.After all, we had no rot and plenty of sun."Still, Lafarge began harvesting on the early side, on August 22, and picked only until shortly after noon, chilling the grapes that came into the cuverie after 10:00 in the morning.Lafarge eschewed acidification, in the belief that the wines had the tannic structure to take the place of acidity, "as in Bordeaux."The wines went into barrel as soon as the alcoholic fermentations finished, and most of the malos took place in November and December.They were racked in May, as usual, and were still on their lees in November.Yields ranged from 14 to 23 hectoliters per hectare, held down more by spring frost than summer heat."We knew since May that we'd have a small crop," explained Lafarge.I asked Lafarge to compare 2003 to 1976."The big difference is that in 1976 we had no rain from the end of February on.In '03 we had several small rains.In '76, the vegetation was completely blocked, even before the flowering, and there was no sap flowing through the vines.The berries were ultimately even smaller than those of 2003, and we had hard, astringent tannins." (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

Following two difficult years for the Volnay appellation, 2002 brought far better conditions-on which Michel Lafarge has capitalized by producing an utterly delicious set of wines, right down to his red-fruity Bourgognerouge The vintage was a bit of a miracle, according to Lafarge: The early-September deluge went only as far north as Macon, and then the north wind dried the vines.Cool nights were perfect for finesse and delicacy, for the purity and elegance of pinot noir."Lafarge ranks the vintage with 1999 and 1990 as the most successful of the last generation for this domain.Best of all, Lafarge had a normal crop level in the 35 to 40 hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2002.The previous year, the damaging hailstorm at the beginning of August had cut yields to 15 to 20 hectoliters per hectare in the Lafarges' Volnay crus, and production in 2003 won't be much higher.Incidentally, Lafarge harvested from August 22 to 29 in 2003, the earliest at this estate since 1873.(A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA).

Following two difficult years for the Volnay appellation, 2002 brought far better conditions-on which Michel Lafarge has capitalized by producing an utterly delicious set of wines, right down to his red-fruity Bourgognerouge The vintage was a bit of a miracle, according to Lafarge: The early-September deluge went only as far north as Macon, and then the north wind dried the vines.Cool nights were perfect for finesse and delicacy, for the purity and elegance of pinot noir."Lafarge ranks the vintage with 1999 and 1990 as the most successful of the last generation for this domain.Best of all, Lafarge had a normal crop level in the 35 to 40 hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2002.The previous year, the damaging hailstorm at the beginning of August had cut yields to 15 to 20 hectoliters per hectare in the Lafarges' Volnay crus, and production in 2003 won't be much higher.Incidentally, Lafarge harvested from August 22 to 29 in 2003, the earliest at this estate since 1873.(A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA).

According to Frederic Lafarge, this estate harvested late in 2001, then carried out careful vinifications "for fruit, structure and length of flavor," stopping the punchdowns earlier to avoid getting dry tannins. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

According to Frederic Lafarge, this estate harvested late in 2001, then carried out careful vinifications "for fruit, structure and length of flavor," stopping the punchdowns earlier to avoid getting dry tannins. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges rely on bourgeonnage to control yields, and viticultural technique made a big difference in 2000, according to Frederic Lafarge. "We don't do a green harvest because that just mediatique(a media event)." No saignee was done because the crop level was not excessive. The Lafarges quickly harvested their Volnay vines in the days following the September 12 storm, sorting ruthlessly to eliminate less-ripe grapes, which Frederic maintained were more of a problem than rotten ones. This was the first vintage in which the domain was completely biodynamie The '99 Lafarge wines, incidentally, have turned out splendidly. Frederic says they're the domain's best since 1990, with even more obvious terroir specificity in their youth than the 1990s, which were dominated by the vintage character during their early years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges rely on bourgeonnage to control yields, and viticultural technique made a big difference in 2000, according to Frederic Lafarge. "We don't do a green harvest because that just mediatique(a media event)." No saignee was done because the crop level was not excessive. The Lafarges quickly harvested their Volnay vines in the days following the September 12 storm, sorting ruthlessly to eliminate less-ripe grapes, which Frederic maintained were more of a problem than rotten ones. This was the first vintage in which the domain was completely biodynamie The '99 Lafarge wines, incidentally, have turned out splendidly. Frederic says they're the domain's best since 1990, with even more obvious terroir specificity in their youth than the 1990s, which were dominated by the vintage character during their early years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges were able to hold yields to 45 hectoliters per hectare in their premier crus in '99 through extensive green pruning and subsequent green harvesting. Ripening was very homogeneous, Frederic Lafarge told me in November, typically in the 12.0% to 12.3% range; after chaptalization, the finished wines will be between 12.5% and 12.9% alcohol. Lafarge described the '98s as higher in acidity, more powerful vins de garde that are already closing up after the bottling last spring. In '99, the fermentations were hotter and more tumultuous. I found the new vintage less authoritative than the more sharply defined '98s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges were able to hold yields to 45 hectoliters per hectare in their premier crus in '99 through extensive green pruning and subsequent green harvesting. Ripening was very homogeneous, Frederic Lafarge told me in November, typically in the 12.0% to 12.3% range; after chaptalization, the finished wines will be between 12.5% and 12.9% alcohol. Lafarge described the '98s as higher in acidity, more powerful vins de garde that are already closing up after the bottling last spring. In '99, the fermentations were hotter and more tumultuous. I found the new vintage less authoritative than the more sharply defined '98s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

Nineteen ninety-eight would have been an exceptional year but for the rain at the beginning of September, Lafarge told me. It was necessary to wait until five days after the ban de vendange for the ground to dry out, and strict selection was required to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes. The result, in his estimation, is a set of wines with very good balance and supple tannins, wines that offer both gras and power: a classic, medium-term ager, to drink after five or six years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

Nineteen ninety-eight would have been an exceptional year but for the rain at the beginning of September, Lafarge told me. It was necessary to wait until five days after the ban de vendange for the ground to dry out, and strict selection was required to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes. The result, in his estimation, is a set of wines with very good balance and supple tannins, wines that offer both gras and power: a classic, medium-term ager, to drink after five or six years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

Father and son team Michel and Frederic Lafarge harvested fruit with high sugars but rather low acidity in '97. "We had to pick quickly to avoid surmaturite " noted Frederic, who added that very little chaptalization or acidification was done: "You have to trust the natural balance of the grapes." The malolactic fermentations finished early, and the wines had just been racked for the second time prior to my November visit. (In contrast, the '96 malos finished quite late, and the earlier set of wines wasn't racked for the first time until September of '97.) "Like 1992, but with more power and structure," is the way the Lafarges describe their '97s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; The Country Vintner, Richmond, VA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)

Father and son team Michel and Frederic Lafarge harvested fruit with high sugars but rather low acidity in '97. "We had to pick quickly to avoid surmaturite " noted Frederic, who added that very little chaptalization or acidification was done: "You have to trust the natural balance of the grapes." The malolactic fermentations finished early, and the wines had just been racked for the second time prior to my November visit. (In contrast, the '96 malos finished quite late, and the earlier set of wines wasn't racked for the first time until September of '97.) "Like 1992, but with more power and structure," is the way the Lafarges describe their '97s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; The Country Vintner, Richmond, VA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)

Lafarge had very reasonable yields in '96 (roughly 32 hectoliters per hectare in the premier cru vines and about 38 in his village holdings, thanks to strict pruning) and did a slightly longer cuvaison than usual. He describes his '96s as fruity and generous, with very good balance and plenty of aging potential. In contrast, he says, the '95s are more powerful and perhaps more classic, but the tannins are beginning to close the wines down. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; The Country Vintner, Richmond, VA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)

Lafarge had very reasonable yields in '96 (roughly 32 hectoliters per hectare in the premier cru vines and about 38 in his village holdings, thanks to strict pruning) and did a slightly longer cuvaison than usual. He describes his '96s as fruity and generous, with very good balance and plenty of aging potential. In contrast, he says, the '95s are more powerful and perhaps more classic, but the tannins are beginning to close the wines down. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; The Country Vintner, Richmond, VA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)