2004 Hermitage Le Gréal
France
Hermitage
Northern Rhône
Red
92% Syrah, 8% Marsanne (2023 vintage)
00
2004
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"The 2004 vintage reminds me of 2001," Marc Sorrel told me. "In both vintages the wines are elegant and expressive. Two thousand five is a vintage for the cellar; it has great concentration as well as very pretty, fresh fruit. "Sorrel raises his Hermitage in 30% new oak barriques, and three-quarters of those casks are made from American oak. "American oak works very well with syrah; it adds really interesting exotic notes," he explained. These are not easy wines to track down in the U. S. market, but they are worth a special search.
00
2023
2028 - 2040
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Driving along the main road into Tain L’Hermitage past the building marked "M. Sorrel," you might assume the sleek, modern facade belongs to a large-scale winery. In reality, the truth is quite the opposite. Guillaume Sorrel, the fourth generation of his family to produce wines here, oversees just 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Hermitage and 1.5 hectares in Crozes-Hermitage. That’s it. To put the scale into perspective, the estate's entire 2022 production across both appellations amounted to just 13,084 bottles. Guillaume Sorrel took over from his father in 2018, with the 2019 vintage marking the first where he had full control. Sorrel typically ferments his reds with 100% whole clusters, though he makes exceptions in years like 2021 and 2024 when all the stems do not meet his quality standards. While the Crozes-Hermitage wines are rock solid, the true magic lies in the Hermitage offerings. Among the reds from Hermitage, there are two: the classic Hermitage and the high-end Hermitage Le Gréal. The latter is crafted with roughly 90% of grapes from Le Méal and 10% from Les Greffieux. For his Hermitage Le Gréal, Sorrel often co-ferments up to 10% Marsanne, which is co-planted in the vineyards, helping to maintain overall freshness and bring floral nuances to the wine. Similarly, the white Hermitages include both a straight Hermitage Blanc and the highly sought-after Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules. Both whites are blended with approximately 90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne. Sorrel excelled in both 2022 and 2023, with the powerhouse 2022 Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules nearly knocking me out of my socks.
00
2022
2032 - 2042
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Driving along the main road into Tain L’Hermitage past the building marked "M. Sorrel," you might assume the sleek, modern facade belongs to a large-scale winery. In reality, the truth is quite the opposite. Guillaume Sorrel, the fourth generation of his family to produce wines here, oversees just 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Hermitage and 1.5 hectares in Crozes-Hermitage. That’s it. To put the scale into perspective, the estate's entire 2022 production across both appellations amounted to just 13,084 bottles. Guillaume Sorrel took over from his father in 2018, with the 2019 vintage marking the first where he had full control. Sorrel typically ferments his reds with 100% whole clusters, though he makes exceptions in years like 2021 and 2024 when all the stems do not meet his quality standards. While the Crozes-Hermitage wines are rock solid, the true magic lies in the Hermitage offerings. Among the reds from Hermitage, there are two: the classic Hermitage and the high-end Hermitage Le Gréal. The latter is crafted with roughly 90% of grapes from Le Méal and 10% from Les Greffieux. For his Hermitage Le Gréal, Sorrel often co-ferments up to 10% Marsanne, which is co-planted in the vineyards, helping to maintain overall freshness and bring floral nuances to the wine. Similarly, the white Hermitages include both a straight Hermitage Blanc and the highly sought-after Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules. Both whites are blended with approximately 90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne. Sorrel excelled in both 2022 and 2023, with the powerhouse 2022 Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules nearly knocking me out of my socks.
00
2021
2027 - 2036
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00
2020
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While there have often been flashes of brilliance from the M. Sorrel wines over the last 30 years, there were also several missteps, mostly involving oxidation and volatile acidity. That has completely changed as Guillaume Sorrel took control (his father fully retired at the end of 2018). Recent vintages have issued some of the best wines from the appellation. This domaine’s potential has always been enormous, considering their holdings in the very best sites on the Hermitage hill. While the Hermitage bottlings, unsurprisingly, command the most attention here, don’t miss the excellent Crozes-Hermitage. It comes from a one-hectare plot in Larnage and is made with anywhere from 50% to 100% whole clusters and raised in neutral oak barrels. If you see it, buy it, as there are only about 250 to 300 cases to go around.
00
2019
2030 - 2042
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While there have often been flashes of brilliance from the M. Sorrel wines over the last 30 years, there were also several missteps, mostly involving oxidation and volatile acidity. That has completely changed as Guillaume Sorrel took control (his father fully retired at the end of 2018). Recent vintages have issued some of the best wines from the appellation. This domaine’s potential has always been enormous, considering their holdings in the very best sites on the Hermitage hill. While the Hermitage bottlings, unsurprisingly, command the most attention here, don’t miss the excellent Crozes-Hermitage. It comes from a one-hectare plot in Larnage and is made with anywhere from 50% to 100% whole clusters and raised in neutral oak barrels. If you see it, buy it, as there are only about 250 to 300 cases to go around.
00
2018
2029 - 2040
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While there have often been flashes of brilliance from the M. Sorrel wines over the last 30 years, there were also several missteps, mostly involving oxidation and volatile acidity. That has completely changed as Guillaume Sorrel took control (his father fully retired at the end of 2018). Recent vintages have issued some of the best wines from the appellation. This domaine’s potential has always been enormous, considering their holdings in the very best sites on the Hermitage hill. While the Hermitage bottlings, unsurprisingly, command the most attention here, don’t miss the excellent Crozes-Hermitage. It comes from a one-hectare plot in Larnage and is made with anywhere from 50% to 100% whole clusters and raised in neutral oak barrels. If you see it, buy it, as there are only about 250 to 300 cases to go around.
00
2017
2028 - 2038
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00
2016
2024 - 2033
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2015
2024 - 2033
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2014
2022 - 2030
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2013
2021 - 2027
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Sorrel's wines often show a rustic streak that fans of traditional Rhône wines adore and, in some vintages, his top white and red Hermitages can be among the best of the appellation. But they can also show, in the case of the whites, oxidative character and, with the reds, rigid tannins that take many years to resolve. In my experience, one has the best luck here with warmer years (his 1989s are beautiful today, for example) and patience is almost always a good move, regardless of vintage.
00
2007
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Marc Sorrel told me that 2008 was one of the most difficult years he can remember. "It seemed like it was raining all the time and we had to work very hard to get rid of anything affected by mildew, which caused our yields to be off by 50% for the white grapes and 60% for the syrah." Sorrel made the decision to bottle only one red Hermitage from this vintage, a choice he has only made two times before, in 2002 and 1993. Fortunately, 2007 is "a very good, classic vintage-not as rich as 2006 or, of course, 2005, but very fresh, vibrant and balanced. The alcohol is on the lower side too, which will make the wines very flexible with food." (JAO Wine Imports, McLean, VA) Other wines tasted: 2008 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, 2007 Crozes-Hermitage.
00
2006
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Also recommended: 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (88).
00
2006
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00
2005
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00
2005
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"The 2004 vintage reminds me of 2001," Marc Sorrel told me. "In both vintages the wines are elegant and expressive. Two thousand five is a vintage for the cellar; it has great concentration as well as very pretty, fresh fruit. "Sorrel raises his Hermitage in 30% new oak barriques, and three-quarters of those casks are made from American oak. "American oak works very well with syrah; it adds really interesting exotic notes," he explained. These are not easy wines to track down in the U. S. market, but they are worth a special search.
00
2003
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Sorrel told me he was the last to pick in Hermitage in 2003. He says he benefited from 80 millimeters of rain on August 27 and 28, which started the sap moving again, then waited until September 3 to begin picking. "The rain brought a slightly larger crop and greater phenolic maturity," he told me. Sorrel carried out his normal vinification, but was able to use less SO2 due to the high alcohol and huge material of the vintage. He told me that in order to preserve acidity he did not destem; nor did he acidify his musts. Sorrel describes his 2003s as atypical, with the white wines even more outside the norm. I have included below a note on Sorrel's superb 2001 Hermitage Le Greal, which I did not have the chance to taste last fall in New York. (Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA)
00
2001
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Sorrel told me he was the last to pick in Hermitage in 2003. He says he benefited from 80 millimeters of rain on August 27 and 28, which started the sap moving again, then waited until September 3 to begin picking. "The rain brought a slightly larger crop and greater phenolic maturity," he told me. Sorrel carried out his normal vinification, but was able to use less SO2 due to the high alcohol and huge material of the vintage. He told me that in order to preserve acidity he did not destem; nor did he acidify his musts. Sorrel describes his 2003s as atypical, with the white wines even more outside the norm. I have included below a note on Sorrel's superb 2001 Hermitage Le Greal, which I did not have the chance to taste last fall in New York. (Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA)
00
2001
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Vintage 2001 is all about power for the whitex000D wines, and like '98 for the reds, but a more elegant version," Sorrel toldx000D me in November. His 2001 Hermitage Lex000D Greal is another superb, classic Hermitage in the making. Sorrel's 2001 reds were about to be rackedx000D and assembled, and were scheduled to be bottled in April through July ofx000D 2003. (Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports,x000D West Newton, MA; World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; and World Wine Import,x000D Atlanta, GA)
00
2000
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Vintage 2001 is all about power for the whitex000D wines, and like '98 for the reds, but a more elegant version," Sorrel toldx000D me in November. His 2001 Hermitage Lex000D Greal is another superb, classic Hermitage in the making. Sorrel's 2001 reds were about to be rackedx000D and assembled, and were scheduled to be bottled in April through July ofx000D 2003. (Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports,x000D West Newton, MA; World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; and World Wine Import,x000D Atlanta, GA)
00
1999
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Sorrel likes the '99 whites for their richness and fresh acidity; potential alcohol levels exceeded 14% for the first time. As to the reds, Sorrel views '99 as good, but not up to the quality of '98, which featured stronger material. (But he was already quite excited about the new 2000 vintage, which he said was potentially in the class of '98.) The style here has changed in the direction of suppler texture in the past couple of years: Sorrel destemmed half his fruit following the '98 harvest, then destemmed completely in '99. He made it clear that he plans to continue destemming most or all of his fruit, as this practice is resulting in wines with greater early appeal.
00
1998
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Sorrel likes the '99 whites for their richness and fresh acidity; potential alcohol levels exceeded 14% for the first time. As to the reds, Sorrel views '99 as good, but not up to the quality of '98, which featured stronger material. (But he was already quite excited about the new 2000 vintage, which he said was potentially in the class of '98.) The style here has changed in the direction of suppler texture in the past couple of years: Sorrel destemmed half his fruit following the '98 harvest, then destemmed completely in '99. He made it clear that he plans to continue destemming most or all of his fruit, as this practice is resulting in wines with greater early appeal.
00
1998
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A small but ripe crop in '98 provided Marc Sorrel with the raw materials to support a longer cuvaison. In contrast, he told me, the '97 and '96 reds were vinified more to showcase their fruity side. Collectors of Hermitage should know that Sorrel considers the '98 Greal the best wine he has made at this domain since taking over from his father in '84. He destemmed 50% of these grapes for the first time, and was so happy with the finesse this brought to the wine's texture that he destemmed entirely in '99. The '98s were in cuves at about 44oF (to precipitate tartrates), so Sorrel had me rinse my glass with boiling water before I tasted each wine.
00
1997
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A small but ripe crop in '98 provided Marc Sorrel with the raw materials to support a longer cuvaison. In contrast, he told me, the '97 and '96 reds were vinified more to showcase their fruity side. Collectors of Hermitage should know that Sorrel considers the '98 Greal the best wine he has made at this domain since taking over from his father in '84. He destemmed 50% of these grapes for the first time, and was so happy with the finesse this brought to the wine's texture that he destemmed entirely in '99. The '98s were in cuves at about 44oF (to precipitate tartrates), so Sorrel had me rinse my glass with boiling water before I tasted each wine.
00
1997
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Sorrel describes '96 and '97 as having plenty of acidity, more than either '95 or '94. He is high on the '98 crop, which he said was very ripe and low in acidity: the vines that go into the Greal produced the highest sugars in his experience. Sorrel conducted an experiment in '97 that he liked so much it will become part of his Greal bottling from now on. He harvested about two-thirds of his fruit on September 23, then let the rest hang until the first of October, when he brought in much riper, more concentrated, lower-acid grapes with almost port-like richness. The two cuvees will be assembled for the bottling. (World Shippers & Importers, Philadelphia, PA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Waterbury, MA)
00
1996
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Sorrel describes '96 and '97 as having plenty of acidity, more than either '95 or '94. He is high on the '98 crop, which he said was very ripe and low in acidity: the vines that go into the Greal produced the highest sugars in his experience. Sorrel conducted an experiment in '97 that he liked so much it will become part of his Greal bottling from now on. He harvested about two-thirds of his fruit on September 23, then let the rest hang until the first of October, when he brought in much riper, more concentrated, lower-acid grapes with almost port-like richness. The two cuvees will be assembled for the bottling. (World Shippers & Importers, Philadelphia, PA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Waterbury, MA)
00
1991
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