2015 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru
France
Chablis
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2020 - 2040
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2022 - 2029
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The irrepressible Benoît Droin, who normally picks on the early side for acidity and chaptalizes his wines lightly, began on September 22 in 2016, with grape sugars between 12% and 12.5%, noting that “13% potential alcohol is too ripe for Chablis.” He insisted that there were no rot issues in 2016 and that he picked quickly to maintain energy in his wines. In fact, his 2016s have sound levels around four grams per liter, or a bit higher than the ‘15s, which Droin says suffered a bit of dilution of acidity from the rainfall before the harvest. The ‘16s had been assembled and sulfited about three weeks before my visit. Droin told me that his grand cru vineyards were protected against frost in 2016 by paraffin-burning smudge pots but that his Petit Chablis holding was decimated. And he won’t offer a Mont de Milieu or Fourchaume in 2016. The wines that he did make in '16, though, are splendid.
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Although Benoît Droin noted that 2015 is not as classic as 2014, he emphasized that the '15s are not like the '09s, '06s and '03s, and that they're better balanced than the "roasted" 2005s, adding that the new vintage shows less surmaturité than those earlier hot years. He added that he has never acidified his Chablis, even in 2003. The 2015 malos finished early and the wines had all been assembled by the time of my visit. Droin has been vinifying exclusively with wild yeasts since 2013.
While the 2014s show more penetrating minerality than the 2015s--and some of them may well shut down in bottle--Droin stressed that today's Chablis is rarely as austere as the wines of 20 years ago. "Nowadays our wines have volume and acidity, and can be drunk young or old," he said.
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