2012 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

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2019 - 2033

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Like a majority of his colleagues on the Cote de Beaune, Jean-Marc Boillot feels that the 2013s will be for drinking "before the more concentrated 2012s," in spite of the fact that yields for chardonnay here were often quite low in 2013, ranging from "2011 levels to down 30% from normal." (Yields in 2012 were even lower: the estate average was an infinitesimal 12 hectoliters per hectare, according to Boillot.) He essentially began harvesting on September 29, bringing in fruit with around 12% potential alcohol, but noted that he picked his Champs-Canet on September 26 with a bit of noble rot. Boillot stirred the lees every seven to ten days through the end of the malolactic fermentations.

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Boillot describes his 2012 whites as "very concentrated, ample and powerful wines, but some are more classic than others." Potential alcohol levels were in the very high 13% range and pHs were low, according to Boillot, who noted that there wasn't much juice in the grapes. Boillot told me that Chassagne-Montrachet was much more affected by the May frost than was Puligny or Meursault. "Here we had a lot of coulure and millerandage," he said, "along with hail at the beginning of August." The malos were finished in January but Boillot was still stirring the lees every ten days "to protect the wines against oxidation, and because they have good acidity." He noted that despite the tiny yields of 2012 and an element of overconcentration, the '12s convey their terroirs more clearly than the 2009s do. He added that the new oak (Boillot uses about 25% for all of his whites) did not have much impact on the 2012s because of their concentration. Fining will be necessary to give precision and purity to the 2012s, said Boillot. The 2011s will be better for neophytes, "to drink before the 2010s and 2008s," Boillot concludes, while the 2012s are for connoisseurs--and not for early consumption.

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